Is there some minimum distance one should maintain from the hole for the locking pin to the end of the shaft that inserts into the receiver?Agreed. I was just thinking about people who already had one.
Wow. 1.5" or even 1.75" of receiver depth is really tiny. I'm amazed that there are racks that say they only need 1.5". With four bikes that's some serious moment to react out over such a tiny distance. And the fixity is going to be really small compared to having a longer penetration depth.Wait!!
Not exactly sure what spatial warping happened overnight but after taking measurements and checking again looks like mine fits!
So works for a Thule Camber. Can be had for 2-bikes or 4-bikes. It need 1.5” receiver depth and the OEM hitch has about 1.75” depth.
@hafroe check out the Thule Camber or any rack whose insert needs <1.75” receiver depth
All good here!
for clarity, I’m defining “receiver depth” as the distance from center of lock pin the to end of the receiver hole.Wow. 1.5" or even 1.75" of receiver depth is really tiny. I'm amazed that there are racks that say they only need 1.5". With four bikes that's some serious moment to react out over such a tiny distance. And the fixity is going to be really small compared to having a longer penetration depth.
Certainly you would never want to do an bumpy off-road travel with only 1.5" of insertion. Yikes.
Seems like the hitch was really designed with a ball joint in mind, and not a bike rack. Good to know that there appear to be some racks that will work, but this is a huge bummer for me. The 1up rack wants 4.3" per the spec.
SUPER frustrating that none of these specs were available at purchase time. In hindsight you might have guessed that it was the Volvo part and gone from there, but I didn't know.
I always prefer more than 1.5" of insertion 🤣 But seriously something seems very fishy here. There is no way that PS put a hitch on that can't accept the vast majority of bike racks. I for one will be pretty upset if I spent $1K on something I can't use without going to a welding shop (not happening). I would test this out with my Yakima but it's way too cold right now, so not finding out until Spring won't change anything. I'll be pissed or happy either way.Certainly you would never want to do an bumpy off-road travel with only 1.5" of insertion. Yikes.
Thanks is much @polerad. Absolutely no rush. It will be weeks before I have my car again anyway.for clarity, I’m defining “receiver depth” as the distance from center of lock pin the to end of the receiver hole.
overall distance from receiver opening to end is substantially more than that, at least 3” or so more.
I can’t find schematics easily.
But If work slows down and I can find a ruler I’ll pop out to make more measurements. Let me know what you need!
to be clear any measurements I take will be from a graduated ruler or similar and not estimated via any appendages. I like my car but there are limits - especially as this would be in my work parking garage.
using nomenclature from hereThanks is much @polerad. Absolutely no rush. It will be weeks before I have my car again anyway.
I don't think your definition fo the "receiver depth" is unreasonable, but just wanted to be clear that it differs from Thule's definition!
I'd love to know the total possible distance from the aft face of the hitch before you run into something. The location fo the pin hole doesn't matter to me for my hitch (which doesn't use the hole). I just need to know how far you can insert something before you run into something.
Thanks! Sorry you are working on the weekend. Me too...
SWEET JESUS! That makes my day!!!! I need 4.3 inches. So 4.5" for the win!using nomenclature from here
Don’t have the most accurate ruler (paper, pen, iOS measure app) but:
aft opening to pin hole center (‘pin hole depth’ in that pdf) is ~2.5”
Pin hole center to full depth (‘receiver depth’ in that pdf) is just under 2”
Overall depth from opening to end is just under 4.5”
Reminds me of an old (and dated and sexist) parallel parking joke from high school: