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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Car was plugged in to the L2 EVSE and hadn't been driven for about 3 days. Went out to leave the house and the charging cable release button did nothing. Tried to open the door and nothing. Got out the manual key and manually unlocked the door... got in the seat and nothing.

Probably the 12V battery is dead, but don't know why as I've had the car for about 8 months and P1.8 has been installed for over a month with no issues.

sigh

Found a few old threads with no activity in about a year so I thought I'd start a new one instead of trying to revive an old one....

Am on the phone with PS CS to see what's up. It's the weekend so not much other than trying to send someone out to try to jump it. If that doesn't work, then a tow on Monday.

BTW, per a multimeter, the 12V battery has about 3V in it. Hope I don't need a replacement 12V battery, too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
BTW, Polestar CS said that the 12V battery is continually trickle charged from the propulsion battery presuming the propulsion battery has charge. Since the propulsion battery was charged to the set 90% and the car was plugged in to an L2 EVSE, how could the 12V drain so much without pulling from the propulsion?
 

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Looks like this problem is still there - seems to be some corner condition where the car doesn't completely shut down and continues to drain the 12V, but the top up from the HV system never kicks in. Have you tried jump starting per some of the other threads? I actually got one of those Li ion jump starting battery units and keep it in the frunk, just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
PS CS sent someone to jump the car - should be here soon. Hopefully the battery doesn't need replacement, the jump gets it back to "normal" and the corner condition doesn't present itself again...
 

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Mine drained the 12V overnight a couple of months ago after I’ve had it for nearly a year, so yeah carrying a jump starter is a good idea.

They only thing the Volvo assistance guy did that you can’t do by yourself is swap the TCAM backup battery with a freshly charged one as that is also likely to be drained. Not strictly required he told me as the car will eventually top it up but in the meantime it’ll cause eCall errors which is annoying.

Hope it’s all sorted quickly!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks! Perhaps I should invest in a 12V charger just in case this happens again. The jump woke up my car and I drove it around the block a few times. The TCAM issue is back (no GPS, LTE or eCall and the AC charging claims its limited to 6A) but the car worked. It's plugged back in and looks like it's back to working (aside from the TCAM issue), but I won't breath easily until it works tomorrow, too. Perhaps a tow to the closest Space (about 250 miles) is advised anyway.
 

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BTW, Polestar CS said that the 12V battery is continually trickle charged from the propulsion battery presuming the propulsion battery has charge. Since the propulsion battery was charged to the set 90% and the car was plugged in to an L2 EVSE, how could the 12V drain so much without pulling from the propulsion?
Well that might be what the design intention was but their software is a mess of various components from Volvo’s parts bin and their integration is a mess.

My TCAM got in a weird state yesterday were it wouldn’t detect any keys at all, I couldn’t set charging amps and schedule, GPS wasn’t working yet LTE was fine!

Apparently this is a well known issue with other Volvo cars that share this component.

Had to power cycle it by disconnecting the 12V and it’s backup 3.6V battery at the c pillar. Worth s shot?

As for the drainage it could be something non software repeated though, I recall water ingress on the outside speaker blamed for 12V drainage on a number of cars last year.
 

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Thanks! Perhaps I should invest in a 12V charger just in case this happens again. The jump woke up my car and I drove it around the block a few times. The TCAM issue is back (no GPS, LTE or eCall and the AC charging claims its limited to 6A) but the car worked. It's plugged back in and looks like it's back to working (aside from the TCAM issue), but I won't breath easily until it works tomorrow, too. Perhaps a tow to the closest Space (about 250 miles) is advised anyway.
I’d recommend keeping a portable jump starter in the frunk (I’ve got a NOCO GB20) so you can do this anywhere if required.

When my battery deep discharged I used a 5 amp CTEK battery charger I have in the garage and it brought it back to life in a few hours. I wouldn’t worry about it, I’ve had AGM batteries that went entirely flat once last me years afterwards.

BTW throwing a spanner in the frunk to be able to disconnect the 12V if you need to is also a good idea, this was the only thing that would fix some of the issues I had in the past.
 

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Ugh. So sorry @gadgeTT. Hope Polestar gets you back up and (confidently) running soon.

I had an issue several years ago where I plugged my i3 into a L1 at the airport that wasn’t providing power (I wasn’t aware of that when I left the car - it looked like it was charging). As a result, when I got back from my trip, both my 12v and HV batteries were dead - the car thought it was charging, so the 12v was being drawn on to “manage” the charge, and the HV periodically topped off the 12v until it was dead.

I wonder if that could be behind your issue as well, though it seems weird since your HV battery sounds like it was charged after you got the jump, and presumably your L2 was able to provide power as the car demanded. But if some 12v system was “awake” the full 3 days and the HV didn’t top off the 12v during that time, that could’ve caused the issue.
 

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Bother. I thought we were past all this. I do carry a booster and wrenches in the frunk anyway, but began to think this was needless. 'Guess not.
 

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Sorry to hear. Were'nt you messing with the 12v battery a few days ago (per your other posts)? Wonder if that caused this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sorry to hear. Were'nt you messing with the 12v battery a few days ago (per your other posts)? Wonder if that caused this issue.
I hope not. Has anyone else who has done the full TCAM reset procedure had this issue, too?
 

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Car was plugged in to the L2 EVSE and hadn't been driven for about 3 days. Went out to leave the house and the charging cable release button did nothing. Tried to open the door and nothing. Got out the manual key and manually unlocked the door... got in the seat and nothing.

Probably the 12V battery is dead, but don't know why as I've had the car for about 8 months and P1.8 has been installed for over a month with no issues.

sigh

Found a few old threads with no activity in about a year so I thought I'd start a new one instead of trying to revive an old one....

Am on the phone with PS CS to see what's up. It's the weekend so not much other than trying to send someone out to try to jump it. If that doesn't work, then a tow on Monday.

BTW, per a multimeter, the 12V battery has about 3V in it. Hope I don't need a replacement 12V battery, too.
I just got done bragging about how few software issues I’ve had in a different thread and then went out to plug my car in and no dice lol. The instrument cluster won’t come on, car isn’t responding to keys, won’t move, won’t accept charge etc but the infotainment system is still coming on. I’m really frustrated. I got out an old jump start battery but it was dead too. Also, the car had been driven a few hours earlier and had 77% charge left.
 

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Hope your car is upaand running in no time. I have a dash cam mounted on mine and though it has battery protection, draining is something I always think of.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have had an OBD-connected OwlCam dash cam plugged in since I got my car back in April, but given yesterday's flat 12v battery issue, I unplugged the dash cam just to be safer (wrt to the battery drainage). My car survived the night and this morning, it is still "alive" but the TCAM issue persists; no GPS, LTE or eCall and a stuck 6A L2 charging speed.
 

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As a possible future owner of P2, not a thread I want to see…first year it was released, ok, but now we are well into 2nd year and these threads “my car is completely dead all of a sudden” … it’s a nuisance if there’s another vehicle available in household, but it’s a major issue, if one cannot get to work one time.

I understand little gremlins, but an essentially bricked car, due to completely discharged 12V battery is not a little gremlin. In 30 years driving, the only time this happened is if I left running lights on … which is impossible to do on most today’s model cars.

I really do hope Polestar fixes this issue, once for all.
 

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I've just purchased a NOCO GBX45 to keep in the frunk and have a question about it for those of you who have them or similar jump-starters: the NOCO limits each charge to 60 seconds unless you use the "override" function that is intended for batteries that are completely dead. I've found that Polestar Roadside Assistance's outsourced vendor, Urgently, has posted instructions for jumpstarting the Polestar that state to "wait for 6 minutes" after starting the jump because that time "is needed for the BECM [battery energy control module] to [missing verb] it's self-check diagnostic test." You'll find Urgently's instructions -- nicely illustrated with color photos of our car's engine compartment -- here: Service Guide: Volvo Polestar Jump Start, Since the NOCO turns its charge off after 60 seconds, I'm guessing I need to use its "Override" button to charge for 6 minutes even though the override is not intended for batteries that have more than 3V of charge left. Is there any downside to using the override function on a battery that is low but not under 3V? I note that the jump-start section of our car's manual doesn't say anything about having to wait 6 minutes or needing the BECM to do a self-check. So: what's the right procedure to follow to jump-start our cars? Try it for 60 seconds and see if it works, and if it doesn't, use the override function and wait 6 minutes? Or something else? (I've learned all this and purchased my new jump-starter since my car died earlier this week and was fixed by the dealer with an overnight charge and upgrade from 1.8 to 1.8.1.)
 

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@gadgeTT do you recall if the interior ambient lights were on when you set the car to charge prior to it bricking?

I don't recall if this is new behavior post 1.8 or not, but I've noticed lately that the interior ambient lighting turns on and stays on when I put the car on my home level 2 AC charger, until I then specifically hit the 'lock' button on the door handle or fob at which point it turns off. I wonder if there's some routine keeping the car awake through level 2 charging until the cable is detached and that that's draining the 12V.
I further speculate that the TCAM module went into a power save mode or similar as the 12V drained and needs to be reset via battery disconnect to gain its functionality back.

Anyway. I will continue to frequently and obsessively lock my car early and often, because I've got a touch of OCD, and because I'm now paranoid about this.
 
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