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Discussion Starter · #181 ·
Darn, now I have to pay to get this new version printed after I just received the original version. Amazing work.
Thanks, and I'm sorry. Iterative design can be a bitch sometimes. At least everyone that bought the files gets the new version at no additional cost. ;)

If it's any consolation, I think there isn't a whole lot more to improve now. But then again, you never really know. Better go buy a 3D-printer, methinks...
 

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The new design is now online (same link as before). The new design is free for those that bought it in the past, just download again to get the new files. I also created a video for how to post-process and use the new adaptive reducer ring:


I think this might be the last iteration for me. I can add more fixed size reducer rings if people wants that, but I think it is well worth the trouble to print the adaptive one. It took a lot of effort to design, but it works really well, so I am very happy with it.
What are the dimensions of the new one vs the old one? (apologies if this was asked already, I didn't see it) Trying to decide whether the bigger one will work for me. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #183 ·
What are the dimensions of the new one vs the old one? (apologies if this was asked already, I didn't see it) Trying to decide whether the bigger one will work for me. Thanks!
I can answer that by quoting the relevant paragraph from the Cults page:

The Cults page said:
There are two versions of the cup holder, the original version which can hold cups or bottles with an outer diameter of 69 mm or less, which equates to roughly 2.7", and then there is a larger version which is tapered (like many soft drink and coffe-to-go cups), where the bottom inside diameter is 72 mm (2.80 ") and the top inside diameter is 86 mm (3.38 "). The height is 67 mm (2.63 "). To check if your favourite cup will fit, measure the diameter at the base and 67 mm up from the base, and check against the size of the cup holder. For cylindrical items (like cans and bottles), they must not exceed 72 mm in diameter.
That's the maximum size, and then there are the reducers that will allow for smaller cups/bottles/boxes to also fit nicely. All described in (I hope) sufficient detail on the Cults page.
 

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🤣 🤣

Pics or it didn't happen!
Due to the nature of Lego I cannot show pics without completely revealing my design. I don't wish to get rich from this, but my 4 year old niece revealed that some kids in her nursery have been building something silmilar looking.
I just want the respect I deserve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #187 ·
New to the forum, but I just wanted to say @mroek design skills are top notch! Printed this yesterday as soon as you released the update (the gold is the closest I had to the Swedish yellow :/).
View attachment 5634
Wow. Just wow! That's the first version I've seen printed (besides my own) of the new design, and yours is really nice looking! Cool color combo! I'm guessing Fillamentum "Vertigo Grey" for the cup and "Gold Happens" for the reducer. Right?

If so, is it the PLA version, or do you have the ASA version? PLA might not hold up to the heat, as you know, but I can't see any issues in testing it out. It is unlikely to break, it will just (possibly) deform.

Did you find the post-processing of the reducer difficult, or did it go smoothly?
 

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Wow. Just wow! That's the first version I've seen printed (besides my own) of the new design, and yours is really nice looking! Cool color combo! I'm guessing Fillamentum "Vertigo Grey" for the cup and "Gold Happens" for the reducer. Right?

If so, is it the PLA version, or do you have the ASA version? PLA might not hold up to the heat, as you know, but I can't see any issues in testing it out. It is unlikely to break, it will just (possibly) deform.

Did you find the post-processing of the reducer difficult, or did it go smoothly?
Thanks, I'm super happy how they turned out! The design is easy to print, so I didn't really have to do any clean up at all. Just popped it off the bed, and it was ready to go!

I used Prusament "Galaxy Black" PETG for the main cup and hook, and Fillamentum "Gold Happens" for the reducer (good eye!). I didn't have any ASA on hand, but I figured the PETG would be able to hold up to the heat (we'll see with summer coming up, can get to ~100F (38C) in my neck of the world).

Post-processing of the reducer was a little bit of a pain, it didn't go as easy as in your video. I basically had to use a craft knife to cut the slots the whole length of each arm (petal?). I would assume that has more to do with my perimeter/thin wall settings in my slicer than your design tho, or even the filament used. The filament would just snap versus pulling nicely like in your video.

I'll repeat myself, but this is a great design, simple and easy to use! Thanks for putting so much effort and thought into the design process!
 

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Discussion Starter · #189 ·
Thanks, I'm super happy how they turned out! The design is easy to print, so I didn't really have to do any clean up at all. Just popped it off the bed, and it was ready to go!

I used Prusament "Galaxy Black" PETG for the main cup and hook, and Fillamentum "Gold Happens" for the reducer (good eye!). I didn't have any ASA on hand, but I figured the PETG would be able to hold up to the heat (we'll see with summer coming up, can get to ~100F (38C) in my neck of the world).

Post-processing of the reducer was a little bit of a pain, it didn't go as easy as in your video. I basically had to use a craft knife to cut the slots the whole length of each arm (petal?). I would assume that has more to do with my perimeter/thin wall settings in my slicer than your design tho, or even the filament used. The filament would just snap versus pulling nicely like in your video.

I'll repeat myself, but this is a great design, simple and easy to use! Thanks for putting so much effort and thought into the design process!
Well, to be fair, on the video I picked the one that went the smoothest. I did have to use the knife a bit more on a few of the others. :whistle:

I'm quite sure PETG should hold up fine, and it is the most convenient material to use when fair heat resistance is needed. ABS/ASA is more tricky to print, and proper ventilation is necessary.
 

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Ha, well that's one way to make it look easy! It honestly wasn't too bad, just took a little time.

Agreed, I usually try to avoid ASA/ABS since I don't have the air filtration needed to handle the fumes.

I also realize I forgot to take a picture with one of our American sized coffee cups (pictured is 20oz [just under 600mL]). Size is perfect!

Also in case anyone is curious, just some rough maths show that 600mL of coffee is just about 0.6 kg, so the glove box should be able to handle this one the edges (assuming 2 kg is the max at the center/bag hook location)

5635
 

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Discussion Starter · #191 ·
Ha, well that's one way to make it look easy! It honestly wasn't too bad, just took a little time.

Agreed, I usually try to avoid ASA/ABS since I don't have the air filtration needed to handle the fumes.

I also realize I forgot to take a picture with one of our American sized coffee cups (pictured is 20oz [just under 600mL]). Size is perfect!

Also in case anyone is curious, just some rough maths show that 600mL of coffee is just about 0.6 kg, so the glove box should be able to handle this one the edges (assuming 2 kg is the max at the center/bag hook location)

View attachment 5635
The post processing is much quicker once you've done a few, and maybe it was cheating to show the smoothest one, but then again most people will not have to do this many times over, so even if it takes some extra minutes, it doesn't really matter much. I could have left that slit open, but then people would have had to include support material in the slicer, and that would have been much more messy to remove and clean up, I think.

Thanks for the picture with the cup. I did spend some time finding images of different kinds of cups and estimating whether they'd fit or not. I was fairly certain that most 16 oz cups would be fine, and I suspected that 20 oz probably also would fit, which you now confirmed. Not all cups are created equal, obviously, so YMMV.
 

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I'm trying another print of the diamond tapered cup with the separate hook on my resin printer. I'll let you know in 5 hours when it's done ;-). If it turns out OK, I'll print the reducer ring in a separate color, too.
 
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Discussion Starter · #193 ·
I'm trying another print of the diamond tapered cup with the separate hook on my resin printer. I'll let you know in 5 hours when it's done ;-). If it turns out OK, I'll print the reducer ring in a separate color, too.
You mean the adaptive reducer? If so, I have no idea if it will be possible to break free the hinges in a resin print. I have no experience with resin, and I wonder if it will fuse more than with FDM. There is a clearance of 0.2 mm around the hinge pins, so with FDM it essentially tries to print in thin air. That obviously isn't possible, so the filament will deposit on the already printed part, but it sticks less, and hence can be broken free with some force.

The fixed reducer rings will be no problem with resin, of course.
 

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I guess we'll see how the adaptive reducer works in resin ;-). Worst case scenario, I just print a fixed-size one as you mentioned.
 

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So.... the resin print of the new taped cup and its glovebox hook came out great! But.... the adaptive reducer not so much. The pedals were fused in and only one was able to be freed without breaking anything. I guess the tolerances and/or resolution just was too much for it ;-). That's OK. The cup and the hook work well enough for my needs.
 
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Discussion Starter · #196 ·
So.... the resin print of the new taped cup and its glovebox hook came out great! But.... the adaptive reducer not so much. The pedals were fused in and only one was able to be freed without breaking anything. I guess the tolerances and/or resolution just was too much for it ;-). That's OK. The cup and the hook work well enough for my needs.
Sorry about that, but I suspected that could be the result. As I have no experience with resin, I don't know how that could be solved. Not even sure it is possible.

But you can at least print the fixed reducer rings if you want to have a slightly smaller opening at the top. I think it will be too wide for most cups without any reducer.
 

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I was thinking of an insert printed in flexible resin, which might work nicely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #198 ·
I was thinking of an insert printed in flexible resin, which might work nicely.
Yes, absolutely. However, I don't think it offers any great advantage over a rigid insert. The best solution is of course the adaptive one, but printing that in resin is probably near impossible.
 

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Action shot of my original mroek cupholder, resin print spray painted in copper (the closest I had to "swedish gold" :)).
5851
 

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@mroek - just downloaded your design and used Craftcloud for the printing. I'll report back when it arrives. Thank you for the design work and for this forum's good suggestions on printing options. Total N00B on this 3D printing stuff! 🔨🔧🧰
 
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