[Bl4ckD0g]

Well, if a manufacturer advertises their sub as a 250W unit it probably means that the sub amp can deliver that power for a few milliseconds only even 120W of constant use would be one hell of a noise.... So I would not worry about that, if you exceed the power delivered by the outlet it'll blow a fuse.

Oh dear, you really sound like the type that put dodgy wiring in cars. Seen it so many times. This is car electrics 101, just run a cable for the purpose.

This... 250W would be instantaneous drain at high load and you wouldn't sustain that for long. As you noted, 120W would be a lot of low frequency noise sustained as well. More than likely you would never see more than 60W with occasional peaks to 100. This is what capacitors were made for.

No no no, not another one

And by the way a sub isn't supposed to make a lot of noise, if you can hear it you've done it all wrong

 

[Sinister_Crayon]

Oh dear, you really sound like the type that put dodgy wiring in cars. Seen it so many times. This is car electrics 101, just run a cable for the purpose.

LOL... yes I should have actually led with that, huh? Yeah, I would never consider hanging anything off the 12V outlets in the car unless I really had no other choice. Dedicated wiring with fuse is the way to go of course and what I would recommend.

I still think if he's looking at a 250W sub then capacitors are also going to be a good idea.

 

[DCFC]

I mentioned that JL Audio's smallest self-amplified 8" sub is 250W because there's no way it'd work So as much as I love JL Audio, I can't use their product.

ACP108LG-W3v3

Amplified Subwoofer System with Single 8W3v3-0.40 Subwoofer, Built-In 250W Class D Amplifier, Black Carpet - Ported Enclosure

 With MicroSub+™ systems, the power is built right into the subwoofer system. Housing a proprietary Class D amplifier, this incredible subwoofer system utilizes our...

www.jlaudio.com

It's 250W RMS and JL Audio always underrated there stuff; at least they did 25 years ago.

The fuse on the 12V rear socket is 15A, FYI.

Not wanting to push the limits of anything and looking for ease of install, I'm actually leaning towards this smaller JBL BassPro Nano which uses a 6"x8" woofer. 100 watts RMS. The factory speakers are only so-so, so adding a bit more low-end with a so-so setup. I'm going for ease of install and max bang for the buck here.

JBL BassPro Nano

Compact powered subwoofer with 6"x8" sub and 100-watt amp

www.crutchfield.com

 

[Artem92115]

Just pass a power cable , it s not so long and difficult on Polestar. Made on mine today, i need to adjust my amp this week .

 

[DCFC]

Just pass a power cable , it s not so long and difficult on Polestar. Made on mine today, i need to adjust my amp this week .

Love your enclosure! Did you upgrade all the component speakers too? Maybe one day... I'm not ready to dig to far into this car yet.

 

[Bl4ckD0g]

I mentioned that JL Audio's smallest self-amplified 8" sub is 250W because there's no way it'd work So as much as I love JL Audio, I can't use their product.

ACP108LG-W3v3

Amplified Subwoofer System with Single 8W3v3-0.40 Subwoofer, Built-In 250W Class D Amplifier, Black Carpet - Ported Enclosure

 With MicroSub+™ systems, the power is built right into the subwoofer system. Housing a proprietary Class D amplifier, this incredible subwoofer system utilizes our...

www.jlaudio.com

It's 250W RMS and JL Audio always underrated there stuff; at least they did 25 years ago.

The fuse on the 12V rear socket is 15A, FYI.

View attachment 20400

Not wanting to push the limits of anything and looking for ease of install, I'm actually leaning towards this smaller JBL BassPro Nano which uses a 6"x8" woofer. 100 watts RMS. The factory speakers are only so-so, so adding a bit more low-end with a so-so setup. I'm going for ease of install and max bang for the buck here.

JBL BassPro Nano

Compact powered subwoofer with 6"x8" sub and 100-watt amp

www.crutchfield.com

This barely does anything if you have it in the boot of the car. Perhaps if you place one under each of the front seats you may get some improvements but even that is minimal. Personally, unless you have the plus system I'd start off off insulating and strengthening the car first. In order to get low end you'll have to have bigger speakers in a simplistic way that is it. Sure you can fill in some gaps from even worse other speakers but with so little power and so little reserve you'd actually end up running a device like that harder.

Don't get me wrong, I think it has its uses and perhaps for some older classic cars with less sorted seats and cabin spaces and little paper based 3" speakers you can get some improvement. But the Polestar isn't one.

PS. And even there the instruction manual suggests to run a cable to the battery...

 

[Artem92115]

Love your enclosure! Did you upgrade all the component speakers too? Maybe one day... I'm not ready to dig to far into this car yet.

Not yet , i m thinking about but i m afraid to have trouble with H/K amp . I think oem speakers are 7.1 ohm from what i saw on a photo🧐 . I see some one put 4 ohm speakers on it but i think we have to put a resistor on 🤔 .i dont have enough knowledge now , maybe will check with a specialized shop for. My primary issue was the air woofers, i dont like the bass from them

 

[Laza]

Saw this in an FB group, a Norwegian company is offering a plug-in solution: https://www.bassbrothers.no/bilstereopakker/polestar-2-basspakke
According to the text it fits both standard & HK system.

 

[Artem92115]

Saw this in an FB group, a Norwegian company is offering a plug-in solution: https://www.bassbrothers.no/bilstereopakker/polestar-2-basspakke
According to the text it fits both standard & HK system.

I use their idea and make it my self as they dont ship to North America, their pdf guide is practical to see where pass cables .

 

[krheinwald]

Just pass a power cable , it s not so long and difficult on Polestar. Made on mine today, i need to adjust my amp this week .

Why the connector on the top?

 

[Artem92115]

Why the connector on the top?
View attachment 21123

I can't can't put it on the side of the box as it multiples layers

 

[Bone]

I'm sure it's been mentioned somewhere, be careful correlating Audio output to electrical power drawn. They can be vastly different numbers based on the efficiency of the amplifiers. Which most stuff today is class D and significantly more efficient than other Designs.

 

[meeebro]

Has anyone had audio go out occasionally after installing a sub? I tapped the rear door speakers, and sometimes my rear speakers don't work (rear park assist doesn't beep either

 

[Artem92115]

Has anyone had audio go out occasionally after installing a sub? I tapped the rear door speakers, and sometimes my rear speakers don't work (rear park assist doesn't beep either

I read somewhere about this issue , Sub amp should be tapped to sub oem wires , if you use speakers wires ,frequencies are cut at low frequency i thinking 🤔

 

[meeebro]

I read somewhere about this issue , Sub amp should be tapped to sub oem wires , if you use speakers wires ,frequencies are cut at low frequency i thinking 🤔

I dont have the plus pack, so I cant tap any existing sub wires. Sometimes my rear speakers work, sometimes they don't. Even with my sub disconnected the rear speakers sometimes dont work on startup as well. Cant recall if I had this issue before installing the sub but it is quite annoying now. Usually what happens is that when I start driving, the rear speakers/park assist beeps dont work, then after a couple of minutes everything goes back to normal and the rear beeps/speakers work.

 

[DCFC]

I dont have the plus pack, so I cant tap any existing sub wires. Sometimes my rear speakers work, sometimes they don't. Even with my sub disconnected the rear speakers sometimes dont work on startup as well. Cant recall if I had this issue before installing the sub but it is quite annoying now. Usually what happens is that when I start driving, the rear speakers/park assist beeps dont work, then after a couple of minutes everything goes back to normal and the rear beeps/speakers work.

The base model still has the front woofer which is located somewhere under the dash on the passenger side.

How did you physically tap the rear speaker wires? Possible they got damaged? I see Renault initially tapped the front speaker wires and his front speakers stopped working. He ended up tapping the front woofer wires. Maybe adding the sub to the door speaker circuit is causing some impedance level issue shutting down the amp.

I'll have to research some more, but I wonder if the base amp has outputs for a rear woofer but there just are not wires in the connector for it. Is the same amp used in the base and HK system?

I did buy the JBL bassnano sub, but have not gotten around to installing it yet.

 

[meeebro]

The base model still has the front woofer which is located somewhere under the dash on the passenger side.

How did you physically tap the rear speaker wires? Possible they got damaged? I see Renault initially tapped the front speaker wires and his front speakers stopped working. He ended up tapping the front woofer wires. Maybe adding the sub to the door speaker circuit is causing some impedance level issue shutting down the amp.

I'll have to research some more, but I wonder if the base amp has outputs for a rear woofer but there just are not wires in the connector for it. Is the same amp used in the base and HK system?

I did buy the JBL bassnano sub, but have not gotten around to installing it yet.

I used positaps to tap into the amp and they appear solid. I soldered and heat shrinked the ends of the wires to the line level input on the sub (blaupunkt 8 inch sub/amp) I didn't use the remote sense wire on the sub, the sub gets power from the amp and turns on just fine. Tapping the front woofer sounds like a good idea to try out though, should be pretty quick to swap it out.

I dont remember seeing a spare sub out connector on the base amp but I'll do some more snooping around once I swap around the wires.

 

[Artem92115]

I dont have the plus pack, so I cant tap any existing sub wires. Sometimes my rear speakers work, sometimes they don't. Even with my sub disconnected the rear speakers sometimes dont work on startup as well. Cant recall if I had this issue before installing the sub but it is quite annoying now. Usually what happens is that when I start driving, the rear speakers/park assist beeps dont work, then after a couple of minutes everything goes back to normal and the rear beeps/speakers work.

You still have a front air woofers and should take signal from this wires , i dont know that s the color are on no H/K system

 

[DCFC]

I just got the JBL BassPro Nano installed into my base stereo system. I've only listened to it sitting in the garage so far. Pretty quick and dirty install. I used a SCCKE heavy-duty 15A outlet adapter with 14 AWG wires for power. The power cable for the outlet has a 15A fuse, this adapter has a 15A fuse, and the JBL amp itself has a 15A fuse. I spliced into the subwoofer 1 and 2 wires for the high-level inputs to the sub. I don't think it matters, but I used sub 1 as left and sub 2 as right. Thanks to @reneult for the wiring chart.

I added a bit more split loom after I took this picture to cover up more of the wiring. I ran split loom all the way up to where I spliced into the sub 1 and 2 wires. I wrapped the heck out of the new wires to the existing harness bundle to act as strain relief. I was planning on making a mounting plate for the sub, but I'm feeling pretty lazy. We'll see how this holds up. I have the gain set at only ~30%. I used the remote control to tune the gain level from the driver's seat. Then I removed that remote control and set the gain dial on the amp to the same setting. Depending on the type of music, the bass level is a little lower than I'd like (Linkin Park) or too heavy (Jay-Z). It is just about right for EDM (Armin Van Buuren) and rock (Foo Fighters). For roughly $250 all said and done, I'm pretty happy with the results as it gave that little extra bit of kick on a budget and it was an easy install.

 

[DCFC]

A little update. This amp has a bass boost gain at 50hz and low-pass filter that I still need to tweak. I think I'll turn down the bass boost a bit and adjust the low-pass filter to a higher frequency. Right now, both are set right to the middle and the overall gain is ~35%. Any more, and the sub will basically overpower the stock speakers. If I were still in high school, I'd probably crank it up, ha. Anyway, the only quirk so far has been that it takes a bit for the amp to 'auto turn on' based on the inputs from the 'high inputs'. Again, super happy with the purchase because of the bang for the buck and ease of install. This screen grab is off the Crutchfield website just so y'all can see the amp adjustments.