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not sure why I didn't think to do this during my test drive, but can you take a picture of the VIN just for estimate purposes or is that a no no?! :)
 

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The full VIN wouldn't be too cool. But the insurance really only needs the first x number of digits.
 

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After 20 years with USAA I jumped over to Amica today...they cannot offer a quote until a VIN is available, but the savings from changing my policies will cover about 80% of adding my Polestar 2 to my policy when I take delivery.
 

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YMMV but just got a decent quote form Liberty Mutual, about in line with what's expected going up a bit from insuring a Camry ($P*2 = ~2.5x $Camry).
I'm going to call around a bit to see if I can get anything better. But given other discounts I doubt I'll get much better.

There was some initial "um... what is a Polestar..?" but after they did some searching they found it. Interestingly, they asked if I was looking at the 3-door or 4-door version and coupe vs sedan/hatch. Guessing that was meant to differentiate P*1 vs P*2?
 

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Or maybe they were looking at Volvo Polestar models vs. a real Polestar.

Since when is 2.5x a "bit"?

I called a few major insurers and none of them even had the P1 much less the P2.
 

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Or maybe they were looking at Volvo Polestar models vs. a real Polestar.

Since when is 2.5x a "bit"?

I called a few major insurers and none of them even had the P1 much less the P2.
Update: GEICO beat Liberty Mutual significantly - 2/3x the cost!

"a bit" is for the insurance cost. I've found that zip code accounts for the majority of the cost while the actual cost of the car and its other features is a minority factor. I have no idea how these actuarial tables are calculated but that's been my experience.

Edit: the GEICO rep did at least google the Polestar, finding out it was electric and remarking on the 0->60 time without my input. So pretty confident they gave an accurate quote. They said that in their experience electric vs ICE or whatever doesn't matter so much as the total cost of the car (regardless of powertrain)
 

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Zip code is definitely key. Despite living in a quiet suburb, my zip code extends into the city and so my rates are sky high.
 
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