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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had my car for 6 months and just experienced my first total TCAM failure. I've had problems before that were solved with a defrost button reset, but this is the hard fail with the eCall service message. Keys don't work, GPS doesn't work, network is obviously down, etc..

Customer service says they will tow it from Salt Lake City to Denver (~500 miles) and provide me with a rental car. I'm wondering if I should let them do that, or if I should try the TCAM battery removal reset? I don't like the idea of getting a crappy rental car and being out of my car for an indeterminate amount of time. I would be more likely to let them take it if they would also fix my loud AC compressor noise and install my tailgate kick sensor at the same time, but I have zero faith they would do either of those things.

What would you do?
 

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I've had my car for 6 months and just experienced my first total TCAM failure. I've had problems before that were solved with a defrost button reset, but this is the hard fail with the eCall service message. Keys don't work, GPS doesn't work, network is obviously down, etc..

Customer service says they will tow it from Salt Lake City to Denver (~500 miles) and provide me with a rental car. I'm wondering if I should let them do that, or if I should try the TCAM battery removal reset? I don't like the idea of getting a crappy rental car and being out of my car for an indeterminate amount of time. I would be more likely to let them take it if they would also fix my loud AC compressor noise and install my tailgate kick sensor at the same time, but I have zero faith they would do either of those things.

What would you do?
If you are comfortable doing the battery disconnect then I would do that first, if you are not comfortable I would let them take it. Getting to the 12v is simple, the tcam battery slightly more difficult.

Whilst your keys don’t work, the PAK should still work if it was set up.

Does your car have a heat pump, the noise you are hearing may be the pump and not the compressor. If it’s a very loud hum, it’s the heat pump if it’s vibrating or rattling it’s probably the compressor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the response and sorry for posting this in two places. I was looking for quick advice.

I'm sure I can do the TCAM battery disconnect, so I think I should probably try that first. I hate to have it towed 1000 miles if that is all they are going to do.

I don't have the heat pump and it is a very loud hum/droning, not vibration or rattling. I'm not sure the heat pump and AC compressor are 2 different things. I think the heat pump just allows the compressor to be used in reverse for heating in addition to cooling.
 

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Thanks for the response and sorry for posting this in two places. I was looking for quick advice.

I'm sure I can do the TCAM battery disconnect, so I think I should probably try that first. I hate to have it towed 1000 miles if that is all they are going to do.

I don't have the heat pump and it is a very loud hum/droning, not vibration or rattling. I'm not sure the heat pump and AC compressor are 2 different things. I think the heat pump just allows the compressor to be used in reverse for heating in addition to cooling.
If you the plus pack you have the heat pump and the loud hum and drone is the noise it makes when it’s working extra hard, which will be the case in hot weather. If you dc charge on a regular basis it should be the same sound as when the battery cooling kicks in.

If you don’t have the plus pack then it’s probably a dodgy bracket on the compressor that is known issue and requires replacing.

all the best with the tcam disconnect if you need any other advice just ask, and someone will respond, we have a great bunch here.
 

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I've had my car for 6 months and just experienced my first total TCAM failure. I've had problems before that were solved with a defrost button reset, but this is the hard fail with the eCall service message. Keys don't work, GPS doesn't work, network is obviously down, etc..

Customer service says they will tow it from Salt Lake City to Denver (~500 miles) and provide me with a rental car. I'm wondering if I should let them do that, or if I should try the TCAM battery removal reset? I don't like the idea of getting a crappy rental car and being out of my car for an indeterminate amount of time. I would be more likely to let them take it if they would also fix my loud AC compressor noise and install my tailgate kick sensor at the same time, but I have zero faith they would do either of those things.

What would you do?
Same here, Polestar service fixed it in two days, low tcam battery and defective fuse for the tcam. fuse is under the glove box.
 

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Same here, Polestar service fixed it in two days, low tcam battery and defective fuse for the tcam. fuse is under the glove box.
In order of what I would do:

(1) Check the tcam fuse, first. Easy to do.
(2) Next, follow the helpful instructions on how to remove/reset the tcam, next. Doesn’t seem hard.
(3) See if they can send a tech out instead of towing. That should be cheaper solution for Polestar, so why not?
(4) If all else fails, Let them put it on a flatbed (no tow!!) to Denver and back when fixed.
 

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Addendum to previous post -

If a tech will come to you (instead) #3, I would ask them to bring a spare tcam battery with them? I would think they would, but never hurts to ask.
 

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Also, just found this on the web: Seems to have been a problem on 2021 and early 2022 P2’s? Polestar has an action/recall to owners of affected vehicles.

”Polestar 2 owners have recommended the following TCAM repair solutions:

  1. Reset the TCAM. Holding down the front demister button for 30 seconds will reset the TCAM when the car is parked sometimes will restore connectivity with the TCAM.
  2. Power down the TCAM. Some Polestar 2 owners have recommended disconnecting the 12v battery in order to power down the TCAM.
  3. Replacing or flashing the TCAM.
 

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We are on the same boat. The closest Sapce is 150 miles away. I went ahead and performed a TCAM repair. The whole procedure probably took less than 30 minutes as this was my first time. Thankfully everything was restored and it is no longer need to bring my car for repair. So in my frunk, I am equipped with a jumper battery an all of the tools required to complete the task hopefully not for the second time around.
 

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We are on the same boat. The closest Sapce is 150 miles away. I went ahead and performed a TCAM repair. The whole procedure probably took less than 30 minutes as this was my first time. Thankfully everything was restored and it is no longer need to bring my car for repair. So in my frunk, I am equipped with a jumper battery an all of the tools required to complete the task hopefully not for the second time around.

Congrats! Always feels good getting things done yourself…ie, DIY…that’s how we learn about our cars.

That said, I believe there is a known issue with the tecam module in 2021 and possibly early 2022 (not sure what date?)….carry over from similar issue on Volvo… One would assume if your VIN number indicates your car should get a new tecam module, you will be notified by Polestar, and if not, and this happens again, you might drop them an email with your VIN to let them tell you, directly?

Good luck!
 

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I am curious to know the science of the TCAM reset. I followed the procedure by the book as recommended by the forum, and thank you for the contributors. What is the purpose of disconnecting the TCAM after disconnecting the battery? Won't the TCAM be rebooted after the power supply has been removed?
 

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I am curious to know the science of the TCAM reset. I followed the procedure by the book as recommended by the forum, and thank you for the contributors. What is the purpose of disconnecting the TCAM after disconnecting the battery? Won't the TCAM be rebooted after the power supply has been removed?
what you're disconnecting for the TCAM is not the chip itself but its backup battery. In order to power down the TCAM resolutely, you need to disconnect that backup battery. And in order to disconnect that battery safely you need to disconnect the 12V (or in principle pull its fuse).
I believe after the disconnects and waiting a while, upon reconnecting the circuit, the 12V then properly recharges the backup battery and then powers the TCAM to hopefully be back in working order
 

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I am curious to know the science of the TCAM reset. I followed the procedure by the book as recommended by the forum, and thank you for the contributors. What is the purpose of disconnecting the TCAM after disconnecting the battery? Won't the TCAM be rebooted after the power supply has been removed?

I believe the “reset” is as simple as removing the 12v power to the module?

I would think either will act as a reset…disconnecting from the battery or disconnecting the tcam, itself?
 

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what you're disconnecting for the TCAM is not the chip itself but its backup battery. In order to power down the TCAM resolutely, you need to disconnect that backup battery. And in order to disconnect that battery safely you need to disconnect the 12V (or in principle pull its fuse).
I believe after the disconnects and waiting a while, upon reconnecting the circuit, the 12V then properly recharges the backup battery and then powers the TCAM to hopefully be back in working order

So, we have two batteries that need to be disconnected - the car’s primary 12v battery, and the tecam “backup” battery? Is that correct? Where is this backup battery located?

Also, if the tecam fuse (located under the glove box compartment) is pulled out, in theory, that should disconnect the tecam from the car’s 12v primary, or the tecams back up battery, or both, if connected in parallel? I guess I’m wondering what this tecam fuse is connected to…the primary battery or the backup battery, or both?

Thx
 

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@Harley yes, two batteries, and there are pinned posts on this forum with the full step by step method including photos. The TCAM BUB (backup battery) is in the left hand side rear under the side trim - easiest to get to from the hatch area. I don't think the fuse is useful as a disconnect as the BUB is powering the TCAM directly in the case that there is a power drop from the 12V system.

 

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@Harley yes, two batteries, and there are pinned posts on this forum with the full step by step method including photos. The TCAM BUB (backup battery) is in the left hand side rear under the side trim - easiest to get to from the hatch area. I don't think the fuse is useful as a disconnect as the BUB is powering the TCAM directly in the case that there is a power drop from the 12V system.

Thanks. I assume the back up battery is re-chargeable, and gets it’s supply from the primary 12v car battery? So, if disconnected from the primary would, eventually, dissipate…but who knows how long that might take.…so probably not good solution to remove the fuse…just easier.
 

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Yeah, it would take a long time I think for the BUB to fully discharge. Better to just disconnect it for a few minutes. The main thing you're trying to accomplish is to hard reset the TCAM module.
 
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