[Will DaBeast]

Just checking: you disconnected the main 12V. Then found the TCAM backup battery and disconnected that completely from the wire harness. Then waited X min. Put the connections back together. And no dice on getting LTE/GPS when restarting the car?
When I did it, it did take a few mins for the system to completely boot up and regain connectivity. But only 1-2 min for the LTE icon to show some signs of life before staying as an empty triangle for a while.

either way, sucks.

though now your profile signature can take on a new ironic meaning?! /silverlinings

Yeah, no go on the reset. I’ll be calling them tomorrow.

 

[Will DaBeast]

Actually I email Haman at the DC Space asking him what is the best way to resolve the issue and much to my surprise he emailed back within 5 minutes. Pretty impressed. They’re service center is going to call me in the morning.

 

[Catching22]

Currently in the midsts of this procedure. I guess I can join the TCAM Club. That little black pin to release the wires from the TCAM battery is a bitch to find. Waiting for about ten minutes before I start putting it all back together

I am in a reset loop. My SOS light blinks red every few minutes. In the same boat with Wifi (of course).

Actually I email Haman at the DC Space asking him what is the best way to resolve the issue and much to my surprise he emailed back within 5 minutes. Pretty impressed. They’re service center is going to call me in the morning.

Good luck to you. PS CS will call me tomorrow. I am 300 miles away from the 'Space' in Minneapolis. Got the car Friday before last. Sometime Saturday/Sunday night (day or two after picking it up) the TCAM got stuck in a reset loop. I tried the 12 volt / backup battery / fuse disconnect recommendations with no success. Just under 300 miles on it when this started. My best observation is this occurred following the factory reset issued so my phone could be paired. Anyway... called CS a few times. They finally called me back this AM stating they would send a tech next week. Got a call two hours later telling me it would need to be towed in. An hour later I called the original rep back asking why. Seems the mobile tech cannot replace the TCAM device on site due to a lack of tools. I just don't buy that. This is so discouraging; I want so badly to love this car. There is no way I'm going half in on a 300 mile tow. The drive to the dealership would be 5.75 hours each way (including the charge ups), and another day of PTO; assuming they could swap it out while I wait. Using my phone for Nav, etc. After they call me tomorrow I'll follow up here. Really want to brag this thing up at the office, but that'll have to wait. It's Teslaville there.

Edit: I'm debating buying the VOE and a 3 day subscription to VIDA to reset the TCAM myself. Hate to spend the cash, but it seems the least PITA if they aren't going to send a mobile tech. Curious if anyone else has done this. Perhaps reload 2.0. Just throwing that out there to see if anyone else has employed these means.

 

[Will DaBeast]

300 miles? Yikes. I’m 14 miles away. Not sure I know what VOE and VIDA are.

 

[Catching22]

300 miles? Yikes. I’m 14 miles away. Not sure I know what VOE and VIDA are.

Vida is the Volvo workstation software interface. Usage is primarily diagnostic. VOE is the ODBC to Ethernet adapter to interface with the vehicle. The software can be subscribed to in 3 day chunks for $70.

 

[Billnsandi]

The 12v battery negative terminal nut is 10mm in my US spec P2 not 11mm.

 

[Will DaBeast]

The 12v battery negative terminal nut is 10mm in my US spec P2 not 11mm.

Weird. I used the 11mm and it fit perfectly

 

[Billnsandi]

 

[JRRF]

Seems the mobile tech cannot replace the TCAM device on site due to a lack of tools. I just don't buy that.

This is really unacceptable and I would push back hard. If the average owner on this forum can do a battery reset, replacing that device can't be a whole lot harder with a good set of sockets.

 

[Catching22]

Weird. I used the 11mm and it fit perfectly

10mm

This is really unacceptable and I would push back hard. If the average owner on this forum can do a battery reset, replacing that device can't be a whole lot harder with a good set of sockets.

The header under the shark fin needs to be removed to gain access. I have zero concerns about doing that here. Once swapped the module would need be associated, via software, to the ancillary system (s)... also something I feel could be executed off premise. Despite being outside of the 150 mile perimeter (by double) they want to provide white glove treatment. This would entail picking up the vehicle, providing a rental, repairing the defect, crediting me for the time lost, and returning it within a week. Although this is discouraging I really want their product to thrive. Our sacrifices hopefully equate to short term compromise; when it translates to 'changing the world is a team effort'. Will keep folks informed.

 

[Will DaBeast]

Update. I’m at the DC Space and they’ve determined that my TCAM module in the shark fin is dead as all there resets didn’t work. So unfortunately the module is on a national back order and will take a month to get in. They offered a loaner but I declined. I’m not taking any long trips that will require charger routing.

 

[JRRF]

Update. I’m at the DC Space and they’ve determined that my TCAM module in the shark fin is dead as all there resets didn’t work. So unfortunately the module is on a national back order and will take a month to get in. They offered a loaner but I declined. I’m not taking any long trips that will require charger routing.

Sorry to hear that. At least they were able to diagnose it. I heard that once before where the shark fin was the issue.

 

[Will DaBeast]

Yeah, I wish they had the part in stock but at least they know what it is and I got the car washed inside and out.

 

[abercolour]

Due to popular request, I am reposting my consolidated 12V/TCAM Battery Disconnect Process so it can be pinned. In addition to my own photos, I am reposting photos previously shared by by @Artem92115. Photos by @Poleatl are available here. Please follow these steps at your own risk. I am in no way an expert nor do I guarantee any results. Be careful.

12V/TCAM BATTERY DISCONNECT PROCESS

Tools:

1. 7mm and 11mm socket wrenches
2. Long flat implement (scissors or screwdriver) to release TCAM battery
3. Flashlight (preferably head-mounted although I had to use my phone)
4. Small piece of cardboard
5. Very small flat head screwdriver

Pre-Disconnect Steps:

1. Ensure car is not plugged into a power source and car is in a well-lit area
2. Unlock doors, open rear hatch, and frunk
3. Fold down rear seats and remove trunk/boot cover to leave an open working space.
4. Move all keys away from vehicle.

12V Battery Disconnect Steps:

1. In frunk, find the large plastic panel that spans the width of the vehicle and is closest to the windshield (windscreen). The panel has two black plastic fasteners on each side keeping it in place.
2. Insert an implement in the middle of each fastener to release it and then pull out fastener.
3. Store plastic fasteners
4. Standing on the driver side (may be different for right-hand drive vehicles) pry off the large plastic panel. Note, it is not necessary to remove the entire panel; only the side where the 12V battery is
5. Keep the panel out of the way while you work. I just stuck my head under the panel.
6. Locate the 12V battery's negative terminal. It has two nuts/bolts to keep it attached. See attached image for reference.
7. The nut/bolt facing the front of the vehicle and at an angle is the one you want to loosen. Using an 11mm socket wrench, loosen the negative terminal.
8. Once the terminal is loosened, lift the entire piece and it should easily slide off.
9. Take the small piece of cardboard (I used a glove) and place it between the piece you removed and the negative terminal so it remains disconnected while you work. Again, see attached image.
10. Confirm a successful disconnect by ensuring no lights are on in the vehicle, including the charging light in the exterior charging port.

TCAM Battery Disconnect Steps:

1. In the rear side pillar behind rear driver door (again, may be different for right-hand drive vehicles), locate the Volvo airbag plastic symbol (it's a rounded rectangle) and pry off.
2. Using a 7mm socket wrench, unscrew the bolt that is revealed underneath the plastic piece you removed.
3. Pry off entire panel that should now be loose.
4. Once panel is removed, locate horizontal oval hole in the sheet metal (see attached picture)
5. Use your flashlight to shine inside the hold and locate the plastic clip you will need to release.
6. Take a long flat implement (I used a scissors) and push the plastic clip toward the front of the vehicle to release the TCAM battery.
7. Now that the TCAM batter has been released, it should hang freely. Take a look at the TCAM battery to understand what you are working with. Again, the flashlight will be necessary to see what's going on. You will likely need to pull the fabric/felt side panel away and down a bit to get good access.
8. This part is tricky so take it slowly - on the end of the TCAM battery where the wire connection is, there is a small release. It is a flat tab within a small plastic square next to the wires.
9. Using a very small flat head screwdriver, insert it into the small square and push the tab TOWARD the wires to release.
10. Remove the flat head screwdriver and you should now be able to release the TCAM batter connection.

Final Steps:

1. Wait a few minutes to allow everything to reset. Some suggest 10 or more minutes, but I only let it go a couple minutes.
2. Reconnect all connections, panels, fasteners, etc. I recommend reversing the above steps sequentially (i.e., reconnect TCAM battery, replace panels in trunk/boot, reconnect 12V battery, replace frunk panel, etc.)
3. Get your key and turn on vehicle. It will go through standard system checks.
4. If your LTE is still off at this point, consider a screen reset for safe measure, and make sure your data is turned on.

This info will help a lot
Maybe a stupid question but how do you open the boot if your car doesn't recognise your keys ?

 

[Mick]

There's a wide button under the sill just above the rear license plate mount. Of course if your car is locked and the keys are not recognized then this will only work if you unlock with the phone app. I'm actually not sure if it works when you unlock the car with the blade. If the car is unlocked and still has power you can of course also use the button in the car.

 

[pesarash]

Great info - thanks for the thorough post. Just used this (the 12V battery disconnect part only) to bring my infotainment screen (apps, maps, drive features, etc) and regen back to life. They seemed to shut down after recharging at a 25kW DC charger
A couple of observations:
Needed a 10mm (not 11mm) socket to undo battery clamp.
Car alarm sounded for the time the battery was disconnected- maybe didn't have my fob and phone far enough away?

 

[BrewBeau]

This info will help a lot
Maybe a stupid question but how do you open the boot if your car doesn't recognise your keys ?

Also, there is a boot button you have to hold for a second or two, located beneath and to the side of the steering wheel. For the day that we had our car, and we couldn't lock or unlock the doors, opening the boot and then using the boot's close and lock feature was the only we we could lock the car. Of course, we then had to use the physical key to open the doors again, setting off the loudest, most ear piercing, car alarm I've ever heard.

 

[Will DaBeast]

Also, there is a boot button you have to hold for a second or two, located beneath and to the side of the steering wheel. For the day that we had our car, and we couldn't lock or unlock the doors, opening the boot and then using the boot's close and lock feature was the only we we could lock the car. Of course, we then had to use the physical key to open the doors again, setting off the loudest, most ear piercing, car alarm I've ever heard.

Yikes. So how do you turn the alarm off?

 

[BrewBeau]

Yikes. So how do you turn the alarm off?

You can't! At least not when it's not recognizing either of the keys, like our car doesn't. But it will turn off in 20 seconds or so. But seriously, it was so loud and we didn't know how long it would go on for, we ended up running out of the garage and closing the garage door.

 

[Will DaBeast]

You can't! At least not when it's not recognizing either of the keys, like our car doesn't. But it will turn off in 20 seconds or so. But seriously, it was so loud and we didn't know how long it would go on for, we ended up running out of the garage and closing the garage door.

Good to know. Thanks