Grizzle-E Smart Avalanche GRS-14-24-AB
The Grizzl-E has been a good charger (40amp). I bought the 'smart' version to get the rebate from my power company.
Overall this has been a good charger (once I worked out an issue I'll go over it below). The charger is in a 'protected' area of my carport. The temperature here does drop below freezing regularly in the winter where I live in Utah, USA and the cable remains reasonably flexible when it's cold/frozen outside. The charger appears fairly simple & basic in design. It does look nice. Any user interface software/network settings are done through its app & wifi. If you need to reset to factory any network settings you would need to open the box and flip some physical dip switches. The charger comes pre-set from the factory to deliver 40 amps, but it can be set to lower outputs to accommodate lower-capacity circuits. If you are plugging it into a circuit that can't accommodate 40 amp at a continuous draw, you need to open up the case and change dip switch settings to set it to the appropriate max output. The instructions are listed in its manual (online PDF), and appear to be fairly simple/straightforward to set.
A personal word of advice from my experience is if you get a 'smart' charger: make sure that you have a good Network connection/WiFi signal for the charger. I was initially having trouble getting the charger to successfully & consistently initiate charging on the first try (less than 50% of my attempts) and it was difficult trying to get the charger to connect/sync with its app on my phone. It would often take multiple plugging in & unplugging replugging the cable into the car, and or unplugging/rebooting the charger itself to get it successfully initiate charging. I assume the issue was something related to the charger and its network connection since I haven't experienced a failure like that on any LVL2 charger in the wild with my PS2. My network was reporting that the WiFi connection to the charger was intermittent and poor, same with the WiFi connection to the Polestar too. My WiFi access point was on the opposite side of the house, so too much stuff between it and the carport for a 'good strong' signal.
I added an additional WiFi access point in my carport so it now has a good/strong WiFi signal; now the charger is working flawlessly, and easily connects/syncs up with its app on my phone. The network was also reporting that now saw the charger and car consistently with a strong connection to both. This 'fix' has been in place for over a month now; & without fail, I plug the charging cable into the car and the charger & car are successfully starting the charge within 30 seconds. I've also been able to implement a charging schedule (non-peak rate times) from the charger's app itself which is nice. I just plug it in and it will just start charging when the schedule says it can without any more input from me, and stop the charge when the schedule says to.
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The Grizzl-E has been a good charger (40amp). I bought the 'smart' version to get the rebate from my power company.
Overall this has been a good charger (once I worked out an issue I'll go over it below). The charger is in a 'protected' area of my carport. The temperature here does drop below freezing regularly in the winter where I live in Utah, USA and the cable remains reasonably flexible when it's cold/frozen outside. The charger appears fairly simple & basic in design. It does look nice. Any user interface software/network settings are done through its app & wifi. If you need to reset to factory any network settings you would need to open the box and flip some physical dip switches. The charger comes pre-set from the factory to deliver 40 amps, but it can be set to lower outputs to accommodate lower-capacity circuits. If you are plugging it into a circuit that can't accommodate 40 amp at a continuous draw, you need to open up the case and change dip switch settings to set it to the appropriate max output. The instructions are listed in its manual (online PDF), and appear to be fairly simple/straightforward to set.
A personal word of advice from my experience is if you get a 'smart' charger: make sure that you have a good Network connection/WiFi signal for the charger. I was initially having trouble getting the charger to successfully & consistently initiate charging on the first try (less than 50% of my attempts) and it was difficult trying to get the charger to connect/sync with its app on my phone. It would often take multiple plugging in & unplugging replugging the cable into the car, and or unplugging/rebooting the charger itself to get it successfully initiate charging. I assume the issue was something related to the charger and its network connection since I haven't experienced a failure like that on any LVL2 charger in the wild with my PS2. My network was reporting that the WiFi connection to the charger was intermittent and poor, same with the WiFi connection to the Polestar too. My WiFi access point was on the opposite side of the house, so too much stuff between it and the carport for a 'good strong' signal.
I added an additional WiFi access point in my carport so it now has a good/strong WiFi signal; now the charger is working flawlessly, and easily connects/syncs up with its app on my phone. The network was also reporting that now saw the charger and car consistently with a strong connection to both. This 'fix' has been in place for over a month now; & without fail, I plug the charging cable into the car and the charger & car are successfully starting the charge within 30 seconds. I've also been able to implement a charging schedule (non-peak rate times) from the charger's app itself which is nice. I just plug it in and it will just start charging when the schedule says it can without any more input from me, and stop the charge when the schedule says to.
