[ossmosisjones]

Thanks! Great write up.

 

[ProfessorCook]

Good news, bad news:

Good news - disconnecting the negative terminal is totally easy. I managed to do it just now and not electrocute myself.


Ah well.... 1.5 weeks to go until my service appt....

Well... At least you gave it a shot and we all know now how to do it.

Good luck with the rest.

 

[Snood]

Good news, bad news:

Good news - disconnecting the negative terminal is totally easy. I managed to do it just now and not electrocute myself.
Just get the 4 push button rivets out to take off the top panel (really could do it with 2 out and lift the plastic on the appropriate side). Then loosen the fastening nut on the negative terminal and lift it off - do it in one motion so it doesn't contact/recontact a bunch as I'm guessing that's bad. Then when ready do the reverse to reconnect everything.

Bad news - My connectivity is still completely broken. With the negative terminal disconnected the car was entirely dead and unresponsive. So that part worked. And after waiting in that state 5 min, when I reconnected everything started up again.... but no internet. My time/date settings were all off (it thought it was in a different time zone 2 days back!) and I'm guessing some other stuff is off too.

Ah well.... 1.5 weeks to go until my service appt....

Unfortunately a 12v reset is unlikely to fix your issue as the TCAM has it's own battery backup. I think a factory reset of TCAM is what the workshop will be doing for you.

 

[ProfessorCook]

Unfortunately a 12v reset is unlikely to fix your issue as the TCAM has it's own battery backup. I think a factory reset of TCAM is what the workshop will be doing for you.

I wonder if that's as easy as pulling the correct fuse... But no. The fuse boxes are powered by the 12 volt battery, I think. So if disconnecting the battery doesn't work and it has its own battery...

I tried to remove the rear headliner when I installed my dash cam. It seemed glued in place. So I don't think it's easy to get in under the fin. But I suppose there has to be a way.

 

[Snood]

Even if you get to the fin, the battery is inside, so far as i'm aware it's not possible to disconnect the backup battery, it has to be reset by software access.

Also, the headliner shouldn't be glued in, it will be clips... you're probably not pulling in the right direction or hard enough, or both.

 

[ProfessorCook]

Even if you get to the fin, the battery is inside, so far as i'm aware it's not possible to disconnect the backup battery, it has to be reset by software access.

Also, the headliner shouldn't be glued in, it will be clips... you're probably not pulling in the right direction or hard enough, or both.

'Makes sense.

I was surprised by what I experienced with the headliner. You're probably right about it, but I'll let someone else have a run at it.

 

[mroek]

Are you sure that battery is in the fin itself? I thought I had read somewhere that it is in one of the C-pillars, and accessible by removing a cover.

 

[ProfessorCook]

Are you sure that battery is in the fin itself? I thought I had read somewhere that it is in one of the C-pillars, and accessible by removing a cover.

I'm not at all sure.

 

[Snood]

Are you sure that battery is in the fin itself? I thought I had read somewhere that it is in one of the C-pillars, and accessible by removing a cover.

You're quite right, the backup battery is a separate module, not in the TCAM itself. I just checked the manual as filed with the FCC:

Here

 

[rgledhill]

Great write-up Prof, with clear pictures too. Very helpful indeed! As others have said, negative terminal should always be removed first as it isolates the entire body shell.

 

[JohnnyFarmer]

Prof thank you very much for a fantastic right up you’re a bloody star. My car wouldn’t start for a quick morning trip to the airport tomorrow and with your write-up I was able to get this far in the dark keep your fingers crossed it starts thanks again 🙏

Whilst battery is disconnected I think I need a coffee if I’m gonna put it back together again I thought 30 minutes disconnection will do it.

 

[Will DaBeast]

There are two of these. The obvious one shown here, and another around the back. I find a good headlamp to be a most valuable tool and this is a place where it really comes in handy. Pull that second tab, and this cover hinges up to expose wires that need to be hot (connected to positive 12 volts) all the time.

View attachment 7214

4 Positive terminals? If I were to buy and install on of those 12 battery monitors which one of those is the one to hook up to or hook up one of those 12v jump starter batteries. Clearly, judging from my question I shouldn't be attempting either but it would be nice to know which is which

 

[JohnnyFarmer]

Still a brick 🤨🧱

 

[ProfessorCook]

Damn it!

You must be frustrated.

Going to try to jump it?

 

[whiteco3]

Still a brick 🤨🧱

Can you get a multi-meter on the battery? Can you get a charger or jump start leads on your battery? Fingers crossed for you @JohnnyFarmer

 

[gray52452]

Damn it!

You must be frustrated.

Going to try to jump it?

Speaking of jumping, does anyone have any recommendations for a usb jump kit with cables long enough to reach the terminals on the Polestar? The last one I had didn’t quite reach from the front positive to the rear negative.

 

[JohnnyFarmer]

It was getting late - (5am airport trip this AM) so after a short trial jumping it with this I gave up. After getting back home Volvo assist came & jumped it with a bigger battery - for longer and the 'updated the software.' It's still showing 1.7 but now works. Cables are long enough to reach the earth & +ve (as chosen below) under the frunk.

 

[JohnnyFarmer]

4 Positive terminals? If I were to buy and install on of those 12 battery monitors which one of those is the one to hook up to or hook up one of those 12v jump starter batteries. Clearly, judging from my question I shouldn't be attempting either but it would be nice to know which is which

Any of them will probably do - they all meet at the +ve post of the battery via fuses of various denominations - So I would use the one connected to the biggest fuse!

 

[Will DaBeast]

Any of them will probably do - they all meet at the +ve post of the battery via fuses of various denominations - So I would use the one connected to the biggest fuse!

Thanks, I really appreciate the input but you're assuming I can figure out which one that is. So if I hook up the battery monitor to the negative terminal and the fat red wire with the skinny one coming out of it I'd be ok?

 

[Ding_1999]

I was originally read this thread for trying to replace the 12V battery by my own (to save money). I'm astonished by how compicated this 12V battery's accessories are, at least, it's much more complicated than my father's VW Passat B7...
Now I think I'd better give up on trying to replace by my own hand