My car is only charging in 4% increments before disconnecting. I restart for another 4% then stops. This is on home charger. Am I right to suspect that it's a car problem as it controls the charging? Any ideas? I have contacted PS support but it's Sunday pm and I didn't consider this an emergency.
WillBrad
Was it working normally before? or is this your first charging at home.
What rate is it charge at (amps and voltage), what's the amperage set to? 32A
Has it worked okay at other chargers?
Is it a tethered charger at home? (i.e. dedicated lead permanently connected to it) or are you using your charger cable?
What's the make of your home charger? and it's rating (in KW)
If reset infotainment doesn't help, try and narrow down the problem by doing an AC charge at a nearby public charger, and try a DC charger too. See if its an AC and/or DC issue, and whether its just limited to your home charger
What rate is it charge at (amps and voltage), what's the amperage set to? 32A
Has it worked okay at other chargers?
Is it a tethered charger at home? (i.e. dedicated lead permanently connected to it) or are you using your charger cable?
What's the make of your home charger? and it's rating (in KW)
If reset infotainment doesn't help, try and narrow down the problem by doing an AC charge at a nearby public charger, and try a DC charger too. See if its an AC and/or DC issue, and whether its just limited to your home charger
Yes and no. From memory the EVSE (the wall box) sends a signal down one of the 2 pins at the very top of the plug that is modulated to indicate the available power to the car (I did read once how that signal works but I can't remember so I may be mistaken). That allows the EVSE to communicate to the car any load limits, e.g. most modern EVSE have a CT clamp on the main power as it comes into the house (probably near the electricity meter and definitely before the consumer unit / breaker panel) and that lets the charger make sure the supply is not overloaded as you really don't want to blow the 100 amp fuse. It is them up to the car to pull that power and charge the battery. For AC charging the charger is actually in the car. The wall box is actually just a glorified switch - it has a big relay in it that connects the car to the grid when the negotiation with the car is completed and communicates the available power to the car over the CP pin, but that's about it.
It could be that the communication between the car and charger is breaking down if the plug droops a bit and the CP pin connection (which is at the top and is susceptible to having communication issues as a result of droop) can be spotty (apparently). Certainly I've had better luck AC charging from public chargers if I hold the plug into the car while the negotiation happens with the charger at the start, although it's normally OK to let go once the light turns green
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
