[justinsch03]

I had the HK system. I did not disable the air woofers; aside from turning them all the way down in the system. I also wasn't going to spend the time trying to guess which were which when it came to the wire cluster. Was easy with the splice kit to just tap into purple/yellow for the built in high pass filter, power and ground. Used the 12V lighter on the left hadn side to provide the signal for the remote; which so far sounds great on the JBL that I dropped in.

 

[Laza]

Would anyone have a diagram or photos of the HK rear sub? I wonder where it's located, under the rear seat somewhere? A sub with "auto sense" on the high-level inputs wouldn't need a remote, so that would also leave one less wire to connect.

 

[justinsch03]

There are two "air woofers". One in the frank on the passenger side (right) and one in the left side panel behind the rear seats. The wires were not helpful as almost all dealers are that dame color, it's been a minute but I think yellow and purple. You could do a resistance check at the pin to those wires if you really want but the jbl has the auto sense and all that jazz so other than tapping into the included high level sense you shouldn't be worried about anything else. If you aren't going JBL you could do another high pass filter to rca, etc.

 

[reneult]

Great install. I also installed the same one, but I fit mine on the side next to the cigarette lighter connection. For power I am using a cigarette lighter plug in as testing. You can also tap into the power red wire from the amp using a postal and get the ground from the same place you got yours. I can still lift the trunk floor and access it. Instead of tapping into the high speaker wires. I tapped directly into the front air woofer wires (it has two cores, two negative and two positive wires). For some reason when I tapped into the front door speakers I lost speaker sound. I am not having any issues and the sub is turning on automatically no need to tap extra wires. I wire the subwoofer manual lever all the way to the front console. My car has the base audio system. I like your cleaner installation. This picture is from when I was doing the fitting on mine. I did not use the straps at the end, I screw it in into the wood bracket. There are two screws inside the elastic section so they are not visible if I remove the sub holder bracket. Al the wires are coming from the top section of the trim. I can take a picture later, I took it out because I was rear ended last week (cosmetic bumper damage) and I don't want the sub to be on the way of the shop to check on things, but I really like the sound now. My car only has one air woofer in the front dash. However, I already replaced all speakers and with the added sub I got a total new audio system.

 

[Ale]

--

 

[bestbushcraft1]

Looks cleaner now with some heat resistance foam to elevate the amp. denon subwoofer setup Will install led lamps to create a bit of a glow/floating amp look. View attachment 15995
View attachment 15996
View attachment 15994
View attachment 15993

How does it sound? All I want is extra bass so I might do this.

 

[reneult]

How does it sound? All I want is extra bass so I might do this.

I am very happy with the results from mine. My car doesn’t have the HK and it is missing the second subwoofer on the back. That’s my final installation, no issues using the cigarette lighter for power source. I can open the trunk floor too. I tapped into the subwoofer wires on the amp.

 

[nostraduckus]

Hey guys, I visited two car audio dealer/workshops today. The first one (Ryda) hadn't done an EV before so was giving me a lot of info to get out of doing an installation for me, it seems. Told them I was interested in the JBL Basspro SL2 or Kicker HS10. Some points they said:

• can't replace any of the existing speakers only add on
• an under seat sub is designed to have some airflow so putting it in the "tyre well" may cause it to overheat (what do you think?)
• not advised to use the 12V lighter socket for power, it doesn't provide consistent power (?)
• could probably install a powered sub but would have to test a lot of wires(!) and can't guarantee that it would sound any better.

I didn't hang around there for very long. Ten minutes down the road, I visited Strathfield Car Radios, who were more accommodating. Told them the two subs i'm interested in. They said:

• the Kicker HS10 is great, the installer wasn't a fan of Kicker but was pleasantly surprised by the unit
• hadn't done a Polestar before but a few Tesla's so it shouldn't be a problem
• Price of Kicker HS10 $600AUD (I can get cheaper elsewhere)
• Price of install would be $220AUD plus $40AUD for Stinger STK88 Gauge 2Ch Wiring Kit
• checked the fit in the tyre well (see photo) I would need to build the riser

What do you guys think of the info provided by these two shops?

I am more interested in the Kicker HS10 over the JBL SL2 because it has a greater frequency response (25-120 vs 35-120) is 180W RMS vs 120 W RMS, and larger speaker so should move more air. Anything else I should consider?

Any tips on making the riser to fit in the curves of the boot space?

 

[Artem92115]

Hey guys, I visited two car audio dealer/workshops today. The first one (Ryda) hadn't done an EV before so was giving me a lot of info to get out of doing an installation for me, it seems. Told them I was interested in the JBL Basspro SL2 or Kicker HS10. Some points they said:

• can't replace any of the existing speakers only add on
• an under seat sub is designed to have some airflow so putting it in the "tyre well" may cause it to overheat (what do you think?)
• not advised to use the 12V lighter socket for power, it doesn't provide consistent power (?)
• could probably install a powered sub but would have to test a lot of wires(!) and can't guarantee that it would sound any better.

I didn't hang around there for very long. Ten minutes down the road, I visited Strathfield Car Radios, who were more accommodating. Told them the two subs i'm interested in. They said:

• the Kicker HS10 is great, the installer wasn't a fan of Kicker but was pleasantly surprised by the unit
• hadn't done a Polestar before but a few Tesla's so it shouldn't be a problem
• Price of Kicker HS10 $600AUD (I can get cheaper elsewhere)
• Price of install would be $220AUD plus $40AUD for Stinger STK88 Gauge 2Ch Wiring Kit
• checked the fit in the tyre well (see photo) I would need to build the riser

What do you guys think of the info provided by these two shops?

I am more interested in the Kicker HS10 over the JBL SL2 because it has a greater frequency response (25-120 vs 35-120) is 180W RMS vs 120 W RMS, and larger speaker so should move more air. Anything else I should consider?

Any tips on making the riser to fit in the curves of the boot space?

View attachment 20341

My friend installed an Audison APBX 10 last week , presently it s in the trunk but he will made a custom box later to put under the floor APBX 10 AS2 | Audison - car audio processors, amplifiers and speakers

 

[Artem92115]

I make it different , i check bassbrother kit (Polestar 2 basspakke - bassbrothers.no ) and make my own for a 10" , i just finished my box yesterday and will make the installation next weekend .
I choose a Hertz MP250 D4.3 Pro with Hertz HCP 1D with a sealed box

 

[Laza]

At least the statements by the 1st shop don't make too much sense, so I'd ignore them Of course heat can be a problem inside the boot, in that case the amp would most likely just shut down.

 

[reneult]

Hey guys, I visited two car audio dealer/workshops today. The first one (Ryda) hadn't done an EV before so was giving me a lot of info to get out of doing an installation for me, it seems. Told them I was interested in the JBL Basspro SL2 or Kicker HS10. Some points they said:

• can't replace any of the existing speakers only add on
• an under seat sub is designed to have some airflow so putting it in the "tyre well" may cause it to overheat (what do you think?)
• not advised to use the 12V lighter socket for power, it doesn't provide consistent power (?)
• could probably install a powered sub but would have to test a lot of wires(!) and can't guarantee that it would sound any better.

I didn't hang around there for very long. Ten minutes down the road, I visited Strathfield Car Radios, who were more accommodating. Told them the two subs i'm interested in. They said:

• the Kicker HS10 is great, the installer wasn't a fan of Kicker but was pleasantly surprised by the unit
• hadn't done a Polestar before but a few Tesla's so it shouldn't be a problem
• Price of Kicker HS10 $600AUD (I can get cheaper elsewhere)
• Price of install would be $220AUD plus $40AUD for Stinger STK88 Gauge 2Ch Wiring Kit
• checked the fit in the tyre well (see photo) I would need to build the riser

What do you guys think of the info provided by these two shops?

I am more interested in the Kicker HS10 over the JBL SL2 because it has a greater frequency response (25-120 vs 35-120) is 180W RMS vs 120 W RMS, and larger speaker so should move more air. Anything else I should consider?

Any tips on making the riser to fit in the curves of the boot space?

View attachment 20341

Well, it looks like they did not want to do that work for you. My car has the base sound system and I replaced all speakers with Audison primas myself ( I shared a PDF how to step by step here in the forum), if your car has the HK sound system you will need to find the replacements for the rear door speakers because their set up is not coaxial as it is in the based sound system. However, in the HK system the twitter and the midrange shared the same wire connection that goes to the amp.
I have been using the lighter power source for several months now for the JBL now and I haven't have any issues with power, it is powerful enough that I keep the volume halfway. In my instal the sub is not under the trunk floor and it provides more than enough sound.
One more thing, I tapped into the front air subwoofer wires for the high input for the JBL and not on the speaker wires.

 

[DCFC]

Thanks to you all for blazing the trail. I have the base stereo and I'd rate it maybe a 5 out of 10. I'll start with adding a sub as that's lowest effort to address the biggest deficiency of the base system. I see the 12V rear outlet is good for 120W. I've always been a JL Audio guy, but I've been out of the game a loooooooooooong time. They have some pre-made sub boxes with built-in amps, but their 8" system pulls up to 250W. I'll research for a while to see what's new.

 

[Bl4ckD0g]

You may not have an issue now, but that doesn't mean there won't be a problem in the future. 12V 120W means 10A. What else is consuming power on that circuit? Is it strong enough to power a decent subwoofer amplifier? I always use a dedicated power supply with its own fuse and give it its own ground.

 

[nostraduckus]

Well, it looks like they did not want to do that work for you. My car has the base sound system and I replaced all speakers with Audison primas myself ( I shared a PDF how to step by step here in the forum), if your car has the HK sound system you will need to find the replacements for the rear door speakers because their set up is not coaxial as it is in the based sound system. However, in the HK system the twitter and the midrange shared the same wire connection that goes to the amp.
I have been using the lighter power source for several months now for the JBL now and I haven't have any issues with power, it is powerful enough that I keep the volume halfway. In my instal the sub is not under the trunk floor and it provides more than enough sound.
One more thing, I tapped into the front air subwoofer wires for the high input for the JBL and not on the speaker wires.

Thanks for the info! What is the advantage in tapping the front air woofer over the rear speaker wires? Does that disable the front air woofer? I think the installer said he would use the rear speaker wires.

 

[Laza]

Well, if a manufacturer advertises their sub as a 250W unit it probably means that the sub amp can deliver that power for a few milliseconds only even 120W of constant use would be one hell of a noise.... So I would not worry about that, if you exceed the power delivered by the outlet it'll blow a fuse.

 

[eGuru]

Thanks for the info! What is the advantage in tapping the front air woofer over the rear speaker wires? Does that disable the front air woofer? I think the installer said he would use the rear speaker wires.

The front air woofer is already receiving the correct frequency spectrum for a subwoofer. Depending on your equalizer , balancer, and surround settings the rear speakers may not be receiving the correct spectrum.

 

[nostraduckus]

The front air woofer is already receiving the correct frequency spectrum for a subwoofer. Depending on your equalizer , balancer, and surround settings the rear speakers may not be receiving the correct spectrum.

OK in that case would it be easier to tap into the rear subwoofer? I have the Plus pack

 

[eGuru]

OK in that case would it be easier to tap into the rear subwoofer? I have the Plus pack

If you have the Plus pack, why are you adding another subwoofer? Are you planning to disconnect the rear sub that came with the car?

 

[Sinister_Crayon]

Well, if a manufacturer advertises their sub as a 250W unit it probably means that the sub amp can deliver that power for a few milliseconds only even 120W of constant use would be one hell of a noise.... So I would not worry about that, if you exceed the power delivered by the outlet it'll blow a fuse.

This... 250W would be instantaneous drain at high load and you wouldn't sustain that for long. As you noted, 120W would be a lot of low frequency noise sustained as well. More than likely you would never see more than 60W with occasional peaks to 100. This is what capacitors were made for.