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Not towing, but... Probably "exactly 90 kg, no more" 😉

Seems to drive alright, didn't take it on the freeway. Might look at a way to pull the rear of the rack forward/up to stop it from leaning so much.

Was less bouncy than 3 bikes on my wife's old Malibu.
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2” adaptor? If not which platform rack?
 
2” adaptor? If not which platform rack?
Rack originally was purchased with a 2" hitch but I had another setup prior that was the 1.25" hitch. I took that piece and put it on the 2 place rack (1up super duty). It's a 1-up USA rack, so I put two add-ons onto it. I would have been glad to have a 2" for this car, but honestly the hitch that's on it is nearly as stable for this kind of a load.
 
An EV reviewer here in New Zealand has posted a YouTube piece of a DM Polestar2 towing a small caravan with honest comments about the experience.

In regard to his experience with regenerative braking vs. caravan's braking I raised the question suggesting backing off the caravan's braking severity in favour of utililising the caravan's inertia to boost regenerative braking. I realise there is a safety component in doing so but if this was done with a sensible balance of safety vs. battery range surely an opportunity for range improvement.
 
In New Zealand the most common trailer braking system involves a hydraulic ram as part of the trailer's drawbar configuration. This works by hydraulically activating brake cylinders in the trailers wheels. The degree of braking done by the trailer can be advanced or retarded by way of an adjustment in the control cylinder to avoid braking being severe to the point of activating under gentle deceleration or just coasting which would otherwise result in unnecessary trailer tyre wear and an uncomfortable ride for passengers. This excessive trailer braking would also cancel out any regeneration as the trailer would effectively replace the job done by the car's braking to an unnecessary degree.

I agree that the wind resistance of the caravan (or any box trailer such as a furniture mover) will heavily impact energy economy but for a flat bed trailer as shown earlier in this thread that would hardly be a factor.

So far as safety is concerned we own a tandem axle flatbed trailer which has no braking. We have towed it with our 3.8L current ICE station wagon ('estate') with some reasonably large loads and when doing so we respect the extra weight under braking and usually ensure the towing vehicle is also loaded to minimise the risk of jack-knifing under heavy braking. I'm confident the extra weight of the Polestar (battery) will serve the same purpose.
 
AGGHH. I ordered the 5 1/8" shank and it was just a fraction too short. Past the 30 days return policy on Amazon now. I just got the 5 7/8" model but haven't tested.

Did that hitch adapter work? I need to put by bike rack that has a 2" hitch needing a 2" receiver on the vehicle. It seems that none of the adapters in the auto parts stores have the hole positioned about half an inch too far towards the 2" receiver end. Thanks in advance
 
Just in case it's handy for somebody...

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Thanks. I foolishly bought an incompatible one from O'Reilly auto parts. The hole for the pin was wrongly positioned. The part you have is obviously a Polestar OEM part - I too need a 2" ball on a 1 1/4" hitch so I can tow my small sailboat (as an alternative to towing with my Volvo XC70 which has a 2" receiver). I suppose I should head on down to the Volvo dealer which also has Polestar parts.
 
Did that hitch adapter work? I need to put by bike rack that has a 2" hitch needing a 2" receiver on the vehicle. It seems that none of the adapters in the auto parts stores have the hole positioned about half an inch too far towards the 2" receiver end. Thanks in advance
If there is more than 1/2" difference, you could drill a new hole.
 
Did that hitch adapter work? I need to put by bike rack that has a 2" hitch needing a 2" receiver on the vehicle. It seems that none of the adapters in the auto parts stores have the hole positioned about half an inch too far towards the 2" receiver end. Thanks in advance
There is a lot of play on the bike rack. I did tighten it with a clamp and it was better but the shape of the P*2 receiver makes it hard to use the clamp. I am probably going to eventually buy a 1.5" rack for 2 bikes and use my 3 bike carrier for the other car with a 2" receiver. My kid really doesn't ride as much with the family now that she is so busy.
 
Wanted to share this:

I've towed a horse trailer (with horse) a couple of times now. The Polestar performs great, and I can only really feel the impact of the weight when pushing the pedal to the floor, or during heavier braking. I've weighed the car with trailer and horse, and we're right on the limit for the Polestar with a trailer weight of almost 1500 kg, and a combined weight of car and trailer of 3750 kg.

What really fascinates me is the corrective movements I can feel the Polestar do to keep us straight. Especially in windy conditions.

My car is a SMSR, and with studded tires I've seen the consumption go from approximately 20 kWh/100km to 35 kWh/100km. So quite an impact to range, but with proper planning it's not really an issue, and luckily we don't haul the horse far distances too often.

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I was disappointed the oem hidden hitch receiver didn’t come in 2”, but I’m actually glad the hitch is hidden and have accepted having the 1.25”. I use it mainly for my hitch mounted bikes and now am looking to get a new rack for a cleaner look than continuing to use the 2” rack with adapter for carrying my bikes.
 
I was disappointed the oem hidden hitch receiver didn’t come in 2”, but I’m actually glad the hitch is hidden and have accepted having the 1.25”. I use it mainly for my hitch mounted bikes and now am looking to get a new rack for a cleaner look than continuing to use the 2” rack with adapter for carrying my bikes.
Don't understand what your dimensions are referring to, the insert into the hidden receiver or the towball diameter.

Our dealer fitted hidden receiver towbar fitting has a square insert (about 2") and the towball has a locking pin that can slide out for removal with 2 choices of ball diameter (2" or 1 7/8"). When in use the trailer couple prevents the sliding 'lock' pin from escaping. Great system and preferable to the retracting factory towbar which is 2" and therefore of no use for the far more common domestic 1 7/8" coupling we have here in New Zealand.
 
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