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Another thank you to @kkonstan for the write-up and photos. The most difficult part was releasing the battery clip; @Random1's idea of using velcro to secure it after reset is a good one. If and when I have to do this again, I'm going to do that.

This was my second TCAM failure, the first one being only two months ago. On my last visit, the service advisor in Los Angeles told me that they are very short on technicians (I believe he said they had 2-3 technicians for the entire West Coast USA, with one or two others in the training pipeline.) I had to leave the vehicle with them for 10 days in June for them to basically just do this reset, and it took more than a dozen calls with the local dealer and calls / chats to PS corporate to get them to even allow me to bring the car in within a few days.

When it failed this second time, I tried to book an appointment and the earliest one available was four weeks away with no guaranteed loaner vehicle. If I didn't have PAK available (and that connection is often iffy at best), the car would essentially be completely useless for four weeks because even if I could drive it, I wouldn't be able to lock the doors when I got to my destination. Though I enjoy the car most of the time, this issue prevents me from recommending the Polestar to anyone.

Needless to say, @kkonstan's write-up really saved me a lot of trouble and, perhaps more importantly, alleviates the stress of worrying if this happens again. Thanks again!
 

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2022 LRSM Thunder/Slate/Plus/Hitch
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Just to be clear, the video is not mine or made by me, by irony it ended up in my feed (the irony is that I have not had had to resort to it … which makes me think, damn it… 🤫) … but I agree, patent fee to the owner is in order … 😂
 

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There was discussion in another related thread about pulling fuses (was it #26 & #27), would this be an alternative for disconnecting the 12V battery? Would make the process faster...
I assume the BUB is not going through a fuse so it needs to be disconected manyally anyway?
 

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Polestar 2 Launch Edition (Thunder/Slate)
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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
There was discussion in another related thread about pulling fuses (was it #26 & #27), would this be an alternative for disconnecting the 12V battery? Would make the process faster...
I assume the BUB is not going through a fuse so it needs to be disconected manyally anyway?
In theory it should work as the rest of the car doesn’t need a power cycle but to be honest for me it’s far easier to disconnect the 12V than getting to the fuses under the carpet! Next time it happens I’ll try that. I’m also definitely leaving the battery more accessible and wish I thought of it last time!
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Sorry you had this twice, but glad you found the instructions helpful.

When it failed this second time, I tried to book an appointment and the earliest one available was four weeks away with no guaranteed loaner vehicle.
In the U.K. I can spend a few minutes on the phone and Polestar will send someone to do this for me within an hour and it’s still not worth it as actually doing it is quicker than the phone call. With a four week wait it’s a no brainier!

perhaps more importantly, alleviates the stress of worrying if this happens again.
This is the biggest benefit for me, and that’s the reason for the Ron Swanson reference.

Not being able to access the car was a major blow in the confidence I had for it but with this workaround it’s just a mere inconvenience and I’m not reliant on anyone to remain mobile should it happen again.
 

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2022 Snow with Slate, AWD Pilot and Plus
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I decided to do a dry run while it was nice and sunny outside so when the time comes I have the skills to do it quickly at night. In my poking around, I found a quick release method for the TCAM backup battery. The back of the TCAM clip is clearly visible and easily accessible through the slot the side panel snaps into. I used a flash light and inserted a screwdriver the first time (and just a blind sweep with a thin metal rod the second time) and easily pushed the tip of the clip in the direction of the battery and both times the battery quickly dislodged and dropped from the slot. It literally takes just a couple of seconds to drop the battery out. I attached the photo with the metal rod inserted into the slot where you can release the battery. You see the clip using a flashlight just a few inches in.
Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive design
Hood Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper
 

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Yep, I just noticed the same today, when fooling around it. An oval hole made just to stick the screwdriver through and pop the battery out … so Polestar knew all along, eh? Not cool at all … 😂😂😂
 

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Thank you @kkonstan! Saved my day today when TCAM problems reached Sweden.
One small addition- when returning the frunk clips one should lightly pull out the pin inside it, push the clip in and fasten it with the pin.
As to the TCAM issue, it started after a 1000km journey across Sweden, maybe the hypothesis about switching networks have something in it.
 

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2022 P2 LR DM Void
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After reporting 3 trouble free months the “TCAM Jinx” hit me this morning leaving home. I was greeted by the dreaded “eCall Service” error message. No prior warnings or issues that gave a hint this might be coming. Luckily, I was able to drive, charge and lock the P2 using PAK. As many already reported the P2 key fob was no longer working and the app did not connect to the vehicle anymore. TCAM reset via front demister button and/or infotainment reset did not fix it. Had to do the TCAM reset via 12V and TCAM battery disconnect for the first time today. It worked like a charm and everything back to normal. A BIG “Thank you!” to @kkkostan for the great write up!
As most know the TCAM back-up battery removal in the back is a pain because of short wires and sharp metal edges. The quick release method described above worked like a charm as well. However a bloody hand is pretty much guaranteed. I have the TCAM battery now Velcro attached and easily accessible under the parcel shelf trim as described in the YouTube video posted in this thread. I did this just in case that error comes back. Unfortunately, I fear that is pretty much guaranteed. Extending the TCAM cable by a few inches required the somewhat forceful removal of a push-in cable tie anchor buried deep in “sharp metal land”. An automotive trim removal tool helped for that however proceed with caution!
Conclusion: Don't get a P2 if you are not comfortable performing the TCAM reset yourself or cannot have PAK set-up as a back-up key!
Without PAK you may be stranded far from home when TCAM goes out. Also in the U.S. the next Polestar Space might be hundreds of miles away so they will not be able to help you from afar. So always have the correct tools (10mm socket wrench, small screw driver, mechanics gloves, etc.) in the frunk at all time. Also know how to turn of the car alarm if you ever have to open the P2 with the blade key when TCAM is out.
 

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Also know how to turn of the car alarm if you ever have to open the P2 with the blade key when TCAM is out.
@P2 ACDC, the exact same thing happened to me a few days ago, and I performed the reset this morning. Really, big thanks for the writeup @kkonstan! The service centers in the bay area have been unresponsive and never have loaners so this is such a big time saver until we find a more permanent solution.

Question: When I got in my car with the backup key, I turned off the alarm panicking and pressing random buttons. Does anyone know the actual method to turning off the alarm?
 

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Copied this from another thread. This should also be in the user manual. To deactivate the alarm:
  1. Open the driver's door with the detachable key blade.
  2. Place the key on the key symbol in the back-up reader in the tunnel console's cup holder (that is the cup holder under the arm rest; not the one in front of it!)
  3. Depress the brake pedal and select a gear position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
It actually is in the user manual ….

Pure progressive performance | Polestar
It’s odd that for some cars this worked to stop the alarm and for some it didn’t when this happens.

It definitely didn’t work for me.

It’s also very awkward to do with a RHD car as the metal blade opens the passenger door and it’s tricky to push the pedal with one hand while pulling the gear lever with the other.
 

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How is this more awkward than with LHD? … if awkward at all? What am I missing? … 🤔
On RHD cars the keyhole with the blade is on the passenger door. On LHD it’s the driver’s door.

Therefore in the U.K. you enter the car with the blade from the wrong side. You’d have to climb over the centre console to get into the driver’s seat. People with mobility issues may not be able to do this.
 

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Are you serious??? I thought all along, the drivers seat is the right seat in RHD cars, are you saying it is not? … I still think you are kidding, right?
 

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Are you serious??? I thought all along, the drivers seat is the right seat in RHD cars, are you saying it is not? … I still think you are kidding, right?
Yes. In the U.K. the driver’s seat is the one on the right (when sat in the car looking forward). However, the blade keyhole is still in the left door. When you unlock with the blade only that door unlocks, so you can only sit in the driver’s seat by entering the left door (passenger) and climbing over
 
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