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OK, that is bad and now it makes sense … the reason I thought you were kidding is because I didn’t realize that Polestar was lazy and put the keyhole only into the left hand door. Sloppy at best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
OK, that is bad and now it makes sense … the reason I thought you were kidding is because I didn’t realize that Polestar was lazy and put the keyhole only into the left hand door. Sloppy at best.
It’s so bad every time this comes up people assume Polestar couldn’t have done this so it must be a joke or they’re misunderstanding something!

Technically I suppose it is possible for someone to move from the passenger seat to the drivers seat, but they’d have to be far smaller than me to make it without breaking something!
 

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I am just literally shocked that they are allowed to do this and sell the product in RHD countries. Boggles my mind …. But you did notice, how everyone here in LHD countries is fine with it, and understanding the Polestar’s short cutting and sloppiness, because it’s the accepted norm? …. 🙄
 

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I am just literally shocked that they are allowed to do this and sell the product in RHD countries. Boggles my mind …. But you did notice, how everyone here in LHD countries is fine with it, and understanding the Polestar’s short cutting and sloppiness, because it’s the accepted norm? …. 🙄
I don't see it as a shortcut or sloppiness. It's an emergency function that really shouldn't be necessary and so if you're in that bad of a spot it really shouldn't make any difference; the key blade could be in the back door. But to put that keyblade in more than one place would just be cost prohibitive. It may not seem like it, but the car could cost an extra $1,000 for doing that.
 

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I know you don’t, but I bet that a) you would mind if you were driving on the other side than where the blade hole is … b) I also bet that 1000$ higher price is just about 10x more than a reality would be …. True, it’s a guess on my part, just as much as your 1000$ is a guess though … 🤷🏼‍♂️

At any rate, I maintain it is a sloppiness which I am surprised they (or any other OEM) are allowed to get away with.
 

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I know you don’t, but I bet that a) you would mind if you were driving on the other side than where the blade hole is … b) I also bet that 1000$ higher price is just about 10x more than a reality would be …. True, it’s a guess on my part, just as much as your 1000$ is a guess though … 🤷🏼‍♂️

At any rate, I maintain it is a sloppiness which I am surprised they (or any other OEM) are allowed to get away with.
It probably only costs $100 to actually make each car with two key holes, but that translates to about $1000 at MSRP. And it would be for every car, not just the UK. As for me? I could care less. I've never used an emergency entry option in over 40 years of driving. Which is precisely why manufacturers don't want their cars costing $1000 more or even $100 more.
 

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There's an excellent post on how to properly disconnect both the 12V and the 3.6V TCAM backup battery, which you will need to do under certain circumstances to resolve certain issues (eg car fails to respond to physical keys).

Here it is:


A while ago I posted that the Volvo engineer that did this for me the first time didn't bother to remove any trim, and neither did I when it happened again.

Unfortunately it happened once again and this time I took photos.

First of all, let me clarify when you will need to do this.

Others have reported this process resolved lack of LTE connectivity, lack of GPS fix and inability to adjust charge rate - I don't know about those, but if you tried everything else, it might be worth trying this too and see if it helps.

What I am certain this process fixes is what happens with my car. Every few months the TCAM gets into a state where it fails to recognise the physical keys. When this happens, touching the handle for keyless entry or pressing the buttons on the keys does nothing, however Phone as Key still works. Since PAK is still a beta feature I keep mine configured but disabled, so I can use it as a backup if I eg loose my keys, or this thing happens.

If this hasn't happened to you yet, I highly recommend that you:
  • Configure PAK even if you don't intend to use it, you may leave it disabled like I do as a backup
  • Always carry the large physical key with the key blade, at least when venturing far from home
  • Carry a wrench in the frunk (#10 for my car, others in the forum reported #11 which is weird, so check)
  • Optionally, carry a jumpstarter in the frunk (eg NOCO GB20/GB40 or equivalent)

Now if your car ever fails to unlock, the first thing you need to check is if the car is actually completely dead due to a discharged 12V battery. The easiest way to do that is to have a look at the red LED in the centre of the dash to check if it's blinking.

- If it's not blinking, your 12V is most likely dead and you need to jumpstart the car, which is easy, just follow the procedure in the manual. I hope you've got a jumpstarter in your frunk!

- If it's blinking then the 12V is just fine, so either your key's battery is dead (unlikely unless you had it for several years, but worth checking if you're at home and have the other key handy), or you have this particular issue with the TCAM.

Assuming you have this issue, then:

- if you have PAK setup and disabled, you can just activate it again. You should then be able to grab the handle to unlock and drive normally, but expect an "eCall service required" pop up and GPS fix loss soon. When it's convenient to do so (eg parked safely, ideally at home) you can spend the 5-10 minutes to fix this by following this process.

- If you don't have PAK configured, but have the key blade with you, you can use the key blade to open the door but you won't be able to silence the alarm or drive the car by placing the key in the transponder under the armrest. You'll be able to pop up the frunk to disconnect the 12V, but I'm not sure how you'd be able to open the rear hatch to access the TCAM backup battery. If you can figure out how, let me know so I can update this post, and you can follow this process to make the car drivable again.

- If you don't have PAK configured and also don't have the key blade with you, then there's not much you or even roadside assistance can do until someone brings the physical key over (which is why I recommend always carrying it with you, when planning to drive far from home).

Anyway back to the process, assuming you've used PAK to unlock the car and you just want to fix the issue so your keys work again.

First you need to disconnect the 12V battery.

To prepare for this:
  • make sure the car is not plugged in
  • pop up the frunk and the rear hatch so it's open before you disconnect the battery
  • close all doors
  • wait for the car to go to sleep (the charge port LED is a useful indicator, wait until it turns off)

When you're ready, follow these steps:

Step 1: Push the centre of these two fasteners in, so you can pull them out. Try not to loose them in the bowels of the engine bay as I often do:

View attachment 13831

Step 2: Don't bother doing the other side, and just raise the flimsy plastic up to reveal the 12V battery, or at least the half that has the negative pole, which is all you need:

View attachment 13730

Step 3: Use your wrench to untighten the nut that secures the connector to the battery's pole until you can pull it out and leave it to the side:

View attachment 13731

Now go and check the car is really dead, because if the DC-DC converter was active at the time (unlikely, but it happened to me once), disconnecting the 12V will do nothing other than give you a warning there's a fault with the 12V charging system. Ignore that, the fault is you just disconnected the battery, so connect it again and give it a few minutes before attempting to disconnect it again.

The simplest thing is to keep an eye on the charge port LED and wait for it to turn off, but if you have a multimeter handy you could monitor voltage and wait for it to drop from >13V to <13V.

If you've made it and the car is completely dead, it's now time to disconnect the TCAM battery.

Step 1: Go back to the boot/trunk (whatever it's called in your continent), and just grab the carpet like trim on the left hand side and pull it:
View attachment 13732

Step 2: There's nothing to break really, it's mostly metal clips clipping on gaps on the bodywork. You'll find the battery tucked underneath the C pillar, you might attempt to disconnect it in place, but I find it easier to just unclip it and remove it to do it: Here's a photo after I unclipped it:

View attachment 13733

Here's a photo of the battery:

View attachment 13734

Here's one from the side to see how it clips on the car, the left hand side of the photo is towards the rear of the car, and that's the bit you need to push if you want to remove it from the car.

View attachment 13735

If both have been disconnected for a few seconds at the same time then you're done, just reconnect both and check that your keys work again. If they do, great, put everything back the way it was and hopefully it won’t happen again for a few months!

Update: @mxs found this video that might help:

View attachment 13739
After shredding most of the skin off my right arm, I DID finally manage to unclip the TCAM battery. The cord is locked up like Fort Knox with some clip that I can get released so I can get the damn thing to a place where I can release the wire harness and disconnect it.

how do I get that wire loose???
 

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After shredding most of the skin off my right arm, I DID finally manage to unclip the TCAM battery. The cord is locked up like Fort Knox with some clip that I can get released so I can get the damn thing to a place where I can release the wire harness and disconnect it.

how do I get that wire loose???
Hi, Michael. Lots of fun, eh?

I assume you're talking about the zip-tie anchor that's a few inches away from the battery. I was able get a large screwdriver blade between the anchor and the sheet metal and pop it out, which gave me plenty of slack in the wires to pull it into the cargo area.
 

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After shredding most of the skin off my right arm, I DID finally manage to unclip the TCAM battery. The cord is locked up like Fort Knox with some clip that I can get released so I can get the damn thing to a place where I can release the wire harness and disconnect it.

how do I get that wire loose???
Isn't this kind of absurd?!? PS should be able to dispatch a tech within a day to complete this repair for anyone who needs it.
 

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Thanks for all the help. I STILL haven’t been able to get that titanium reinforced bastard out and I’m losing blood by the pint trying to squeeze my arm in there to get at it. I managed to clip it back to the car and closed the trunk. Four days till Polestar can look at it and I have to leave car there all day.
 

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Thanks for all the help. I STILL haven’t been able to get that titanium reinforced bastard out and I’m losing blood by the pint trying to squeeze my arm in there to get at it. I managed to clip it back to the car and closed the trunk. Four days till Polestar can look at it and I have to leave car there all day.
Shit. Sounds like you have a truly solid, Volvo-like anchor. Perhaps give it another go when you’ve recovered from that significant blood loss.
I assume the Space will be doing more than just a quick reset if they want the car all day. When they replaced my backup battery early on, it took the tech all of 30 seconds to swap it out.
 

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I’m just assuming it’s the TCAM issue (I have no gps or Spotify). But the app can still lock the doors and the keys work. Frustrating.
Yep. It is. I’d be willing to bet that getting both batteries disconnected would solve the problem, at least for a while.
While I agree with the esteemed & exalted JRRF that we shouldn’t need to be screwing around doing this to a $60-70k car, the trade-off of spending a frustrating 1/2 hour vs all day in a shop is a no-brainer for me.
 

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Well, you can now add me to the list of unhappy people with a car that refuses to detect the key fob. It was working perfectly all day, a nice long trip to charge any rechargeable TCAM batteries etc... arrived at the hotel 200 miles from home, all good. Went back out 5 minutes later and it was totally dead. Used the blade to get into the car, alarm blares and I sit there trying to get it to behave for half an hour, with the alarm blaring for about 10-15 minutes before it timed out.
I then found this thread, re-enabled PAK and the car didn't do anything. I disconnected and reconnected the TCAM battery and that made no difference. I gave up, got out of the car, put my hand in the door handle to close it... and the doors unlocked and car was fine allowing me to drive it, aside from eCall error etc. I grabbed our stuff and left it, though it didn't want to lock initially.
20 minutes later I went back out again to see if PAK was still an option and it's dead again. Waiting for a recovery truck now, armed with the 12V and TCAM reset procedure - assuming I can get into the boot. It's also throwing it down with rain.
Sometimes things conspire against me!!
 
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