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This happened to me after 7 months of ownership, at the beginning of August. I did the 12V and TCAM disconnect and it resolved it until 3 weeks later. Happened again and resolved with the 12V/TCAM reset. Booked an appointment with the Space and they did a TCAM software rollback. Hopefully that will fix it.

BTW, after using the manual key, you need to put the remote in the cupholder under the armrest and then shift into gear. Then the alarm will turn off.
 

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Well, you can now add me to the list of unhappy people with a car that refuses to detect the key fob. It was working perfectly all day, a nice long trip to charge any rechargeable TCAM batteries etc... arrived at the hotel 200 miles from home, all good. Went back out 5 minutes later and it was totally dead. Used the blade to get into the car, alarm blares and I sit there trying to get it to behave for half an hour, with the alarm blaring for about 10-15 minutes before it timed out.
I then found this thread, re-enabled PAK and the car didn't do anything. I disconnected and reconnected the TCAM battery and that made no difference. I gave up, got out of the car, put my hand in the door handle to close it... and the doors unlocked and car was fine allowing me to drive it, aside from eCall error etc. I grabbed our stuff and left it, though it didn't want to lock initially.
20 minutes later I went back out again to see if PAK was still an option and it's dead again. Waiting for a recovery truck now, armed with the 12V and TCAM reset procedure - assuming I can get into the boot. It's also throwing it down with rain.
Sometimes things conspire against me!!
This sucks! Richard, you are our rock, our mod! This is not supposed to happen to you. It shakes my confidence even more now.
 

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Yeah, it sucks to hear.

By now, I take nothing for granted with my car … I expect it can screw me at any point. The fact that nothing serious has happened in first 10K kms means literally nothing with P2. I know that by now. I find this the only way to enjoy the car, which so great when it works as expected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
Sad to hear another story, bit this is also another story confirming that nobody should feel safe from this no matter how many miles/months they’ve had the car for.

Always carry the metal blade, at least whenever venturing far from home. I know for some it’s considered inconvenient but it’s not comparable to the inconvenience of not having access to the car when this issue happens.
 

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2022 P2 LR DM Void
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For those who plan to fix the TCAM issue themselves (either when it occurs or preventive): Make sure you know how to access the TCAM battery and how to disconnect it. Spoiler: It is somewhat of a pain...literally! Honestly, I would dig the "bloody" TCAM battery out before it ever happens, remove that annoying cable-tie anchor and velcro the TCAM battery under the parcel shelf side cover as outlined in the YouTube video in OP. This way the TCAM battery is easy to access (without bloody hands) and the whole reset process will take less than 5 minutes. You can thank me later if that "preventive maintenance" saved your day, marriage, vacation or road trip;)
 

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Polestar 2 Dual Motor, Long Range, Midnight (blue), charcoal interior, non-PP
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Yes, never had this happen to me before...

I did see in another thread that there's a neat metal slot in the metalwork right where the battery release catch is, so rather than cut yourself to shreds, you simply insert a screwdriver in the slot and wiggle it around, and the battery drops down!

The phone-as-key worked slowly, clunkily but (ultimately) flawlessly over the last 3 days and we were able to continue our holiday without problems, thankfully. Now let's see just how much of a mess our local Volvo dealership can make of it all...
 

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Had to do a this today. Absolute pain, but thanks for documenting it. I have to have a look at how I clip the cable tie without cutting the cable! Looks reasonably impossible with the trim panels just moved out of the way. Glad the car is working ok again though
 

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@kkonstan you have no idea how grateful I am for your post! We bought our Polestar2 in Sweden and drove it to south France where we live (since up until September 1st, 2022 Polestar was banned in France); so, no Polestar garage at all in this country. Yesterday we were locked out from our car while charging it. We managed to open it with the spare key and drive it back home but nor the fob, the digital lock or the app were working so we couldn’t lock the car at all. And the SOS sign was lighted in red but no SOS connection could de done. Anyway, We left it open overnight. We called polestar support and they wouldn’t know what to do since we were in south France and an engineer needed to be on site to provide support. That’s when I read many posts in this forum and after performing many TCAM resets, removing fuses 26 and 27 from the fuse box and putting them back, and perform more TCAM resets, I came in to your post. We did exactly as you said, step by step and voilá! We can lock and unlock our car again. Thank you so much! It’s just the app now that is still not working. we don’t know why it is still not connecting with the car. Anyway, thanks for documenting this process. It saved us from a great deal of pain!
 

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Had my car for 4 months with no major issues. Been reading about all these tcam issues and thought maybe I might be one of the lucky ones. Turns out I was wrong. Got the dreaded ecall service message 2 days ago. My keys stopped working but GPS was working until the next day. Thank god I had PAK setup which allowed me to continue driving. Rebooting the tablet and pressing the demist button did not fix it. Called the support # in the phone app and got someone immediately. He did not even try any troubleshooting steps with me after I told him the error message. Just gave me the local service # to call for appointment. The earliest they could send someone out to pick up the car and deliver my loaner was 3 weeks out. 2 weeks out if I don't need a loaner and 1 week if I can bring the car in. I'm closest to the Polestar Marin space.

Initially, I was not going to try disconnecting the batteries since I can still drive the car using PAK and have Carplay for maps. But after GPS failed, I was concerned what may fail next. Thanks to all the great instructions was able to disconnect the batteries. Every step was surprisingly quick and simple except for disconnecting the backup battery as others have stated. That took a half hour and was just about ready to give up but finally managed to unplug it. Waited 8 minutes and reconnected the batteries. Held my breath and started the car. Glad to report that the ecall service message is gone and my keys & gps started working again. I intend to keep my service appt. in case they can do something to minimize the chances of this happening again.
 

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The unreasonably long service assistance availability, is forcing people to help themselves … nice work Polestar…😂 … since this is actual Polestar (not some Volvo hybrid; or is it?), with relatively low number of sold vehicles on the road, only two things come to mind… Either they are really overwhelmed with issues, or they simply are not staffed you would expect them to be. Neither is very good, optically for customers.
 

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The earliest they could send someone out to pick up the car and deliver my loaner was 3 weeks out. 2 weeks out if I don't need a loaner and 1 week if I can bring the car in.
This is really unacceptable. I think the best option is to NOT fix it yourself and tell them you are now stuck and unable to get to work/school/etc. They have an obligation to get you back on the road. What if you were traveling?
 

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Looks like a Polestar read this page and figured, people can just help themselves …. 🙄 … if you tell someone a week plus wait time, people will start wrenching.
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
This is really unacceptable. I think the best option is to NOT fix it yourself and tell them you are now stuck and unable to get to work/school/etc. They have an obligation to get you back on the road. What if you were traveling?
Depends on what's more important to you at the time this happens. Fixing it yourself is minimising inconvenience to you, but at the same time it also does the same to Polestar, so I get the argument that this isn't incentivising them to work on it.

However at this point we know they're actively working on it, in fact they tried to provide a fix on P2.3 which didn't quite work, so for most the best tradeoff right now would be to, if they can, just DIY fix it in a few minutes rather than go through the inconvenience of getting Polestar to do the same thing for you weeks later in the hope that this will accelerate delivery of a proper fix.
 

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2.3 did look like a casual admittance to fix an issue with a key fob entry, rather than saying flat out TCAM (unless I have missed it)….while the TCAM issue does not effect only keys though, right…. But connectivity in general, so I am not sure whether that is their careful tactic or rather really a different issue altogether.
 

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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
2.3 did look like a casual admittance to fix an issue with a key fob entry, rather than saying flat out TCAM (unless I have missed it)….while the TCAM issue does not effect only keys though, right…. But connectivity in general, so I am not sure whether that is their careful tactic or rather really a different issue altogether.
Well this topic was mostly focused on the key issue, and my understanding is that connectivity complaints, at least in the UK, seem to have stopped about a year ago, are they still an issue there?

The only other issue that I'm aware that is fixed by a TCAM reset is the inability to change charging rate as far as I know, which depending on which speed it got stuck it might or might not be possible to wait several weeks for Polestar to sort it out!

But yeah, if it's not stopping you from accessing, driving and charging the car it's probably best to wait for Polestar to deal with it.
 

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Yes, never had this happen to me before...

I did see in another thread that there's a neat metal slot in the metalwork right where the battery release catch is, so rather than cut yourself to shreds, you simply insert a screwdriver in the slot and wiggle it around, and the battery drops down!

The phone-as-key worked slowly, clunkily but (ultimately) flawlessly over the last 3 days and we were able to continue our holiday without problems, thankfully. Now let's see just how much of a mess our local Volvo dealership can make of it all...
Yes, a long slotted screwdriver -- yesterday the tech at the service center showed me how while I was there for the 20K service. It took him about fifteen seconds from opening hatch to holding the 5V in his hand. They do this all day. I showed them my own TCAM reset "kit" and they got a kick out of that.

I also saw the DIY TCAM battery charger they use. I have the same charger (for 18650 batteries) so may make one myself if I can find the wire connector for the 5V battery case.

It is disconcerting that with all the bruh-hah-ha of slick high tech in the IPO and the too-slick ads and Hertz and Leo and such, a hacked and soldered Amazon-special vape battery charger has kept many of our cars on the road. Kudos to the techs at this service center, as they are really on their own, with apparently nearly no help from HQ.

In essence, the latest procedure is to first pull fuse 27 then put it back in, if that works then done. If not, then the 12V/5V pull. If that still doesn't work, then they charge the 5V (takes about an hour) but seems that discharged 5Vs are mostly in earlier TCAM failures, not the current eSOS failure version. Actually, he showed me the battery pull on my own car and did not bother to disconnect the 12V. I found that the infotainment was buggy and needed a reset after just disconnecting the 5V but otherwise all was fine.

Here are the best pics I could take as I reproduced it at home. Note the tab is visible through the oblong hole in the second pic. Pull off the hard plastic trim then stick the screwdriver in the oblong hole and behind the tab then just lever it forward and the battery drops. This is also better as it reduces the chance you will damage the battery casing when trying to get it unhooked from below.
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Here are the best pics I could take as I reproduced it at home. Note the tab is visible through the oblong hole in the second pic. Pull off the hard plastic trim then stick the screwdriver in the oblong hole and behind the tab then just lever it forward and the battery drops. This is also better as it reduces the chance you will damage the battery casing when trying to get it unhooked from below.
So it drops to where you can get your hands on it. Then you still need to disconnect it? And then how do you get it back and secure?
 

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So it drops to where you can get your hands on it. Then you still need to disconnect it? And then how do you get it back and secure?
Yes it drops and hangs from the wires. Then you pull the carpet-like trim off to grab it and disconnect the wire harness (without dropping the battery) then reconnect after a few seconds, hook and snap it back in place and are good to go.
 
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